Cemetery Road Trip: The Walkerton Water Tragedy

I rarely stop to think about where our drinking water comes from, let alone whether it’s safe.

In May 2000, the small town of Walkerton, Ontario, faced one of Canada’s worst public health disasters. Contaminated water led to the deaths of seven people and made more than 2,300 people sick.1

Walkerton is about a four-hour drive from where I live, and this year marks the 25th anniversary of that tragedy. In June, my mother and I took a road trip there to visit some of the sites connected to the outbreak and to pay our respects to the lives that were lost.

What Happened in Walkerton

You might remember hearing about this on the news. Walkerton’s drinking water became contaminated with E.coli.1 The source of the contamination was traced back to Well #5, where runoff from a nearby farm had entered the groundwater. Heavy rainfall in early May 2000 carried manure into the well, and the danger was made worse by human error and poor safety practices at the time.1

For days, residents kept drinking the water, completely unaware of the risk. Once it was realized what was happening, it was too late. Within weeks, seven people had died and more than 2,300 others became seriously ill.1 Many survivors continue to live with lasting health problems even today.

The Walkerton Inquiry, led by the Honourable Dennis R. O’Connor, later showed that this wasn’t just one bad well—but a series of failures. Training was inadequate, oversight was weak, and protocols weren’t followed the way they should have been. Out of this tragedy came stricter water safety regulations for Ontario, which eventually shaped how drinking water is managed across Canada.2

Visiting Walkerton

When we arrived in Walkerton, our first stop was the Walkerton Clean Water Centre. It first opened in 2004, and since then has trained over 23,000 water system operators.3 The new state-of-the-art building, which we visited, was opened in 2010. It features a demonstration water distribution system for hands-on training, more room to host seminars, and space to conduct research.3

In May of this year, they offered tours of the facility, close to the anniversary of the tragedy. The timing didn’t work out for us to take a tour, but I still wanted to take a look at the building.

It’s a modern building, with a lovely koi pond just outside its main doors. The large windows have a nice view of the pond, and let in a lot of natural light. There is also a small pond across from the entrance, overgrown with tall grass and cattails, that is surrounded by a little trail loop. I imagine the staff take advantage of that little walking trail on their lunch breaks. I think the water features, while also being pretty, act as little reminders of how important water is to our ecosystem and us.

Our next stop brought us to a small cemetery that wasn’t connected to the tragedy. I am not one to pass up a cemetery visit though, so we made our way to visit. It just so happened to be very close to the Walkerton water tower. After that, we decided to visit a few more cemeteries, the last one of the day being Calvary Cemetery.

Calvary Cemetery is on the outskirts, just south of the town. This cemetery visit was important for our journey, as it is the final resting place of two people who died in the water tragedy.

Edith Pearson, a mother of five and a grandmother of 13, passed away at the age of 82.4 Not far from her rests Lenore Al, a retired part-time librarian, who passed away at the London Health Sciences Centre at the age of 66.4 Their memorial services were held both during the same week.5

It was a very reflective visit, as my mother and I walked the rows searching for these specific graves. It was a scary thought to think what could happen by just drinking a glass of water. Standing in front of their graves also made their story real, bringing it off the page and into reality.

After that somber visit, I thought it might be a good idea to visit something a little more hopeful. The Walkerton Heritage Water Garden features a waterfall that gushes out from a crack in a large rock formation. It’s inspired by the biblical story of Moses, who struck a rock in the desert to bring water to the Israelites.6 It represents water as a positive symbol of life, healing and renewal. The waterfall pours into a small pond that is surrounded by a larger walking trail. There are benches and small clusters of flowers and tall grass that dot the path that leads you back to the memorial fountain.

It was a hot day when we visited, so the occasional cool spray from the waterfall was very welcome. It was a nice little spot for a small walk, but the constant running water made it hard to forget why it was there.

Our first day in Walkerton was a long one. Shortly after our walk, we found something to eat and then settled in to our motel for the night. We had one more site we had to visit.

The next morning, after a good breakfast, I wanted to find Well #5.

Sometimes while planning and researching, it can be tricky to find exact locations, even in this digital age. But I thought we have to give it a try. So with only a street name in my GPS we headed out.

Slowly driving down the dirt road, we kept our eyes peeled for signs of the well. I was getting worried as we reached the end of the road, but I caught the glimmer of what looked like a silver plaque.

We found the well, which has since been capped off, tucked in behind a small building on the edge of a farmer’s field. Today, it’s just a large cement pad with a small silver plaque. If you didn’t know what you were looking at, you may think nothing of it, but the plaque tells the whole story.

“Well 5 Memorial / This plaque marks the location of Walkerton’s former Well 5 / which supplied a portion of the town’s drinking water from / 1978 into the spring of 2000. In mid May of the year 2000, / extremely heavy rains washed a toxic blend of biological / pathogens through the soils and into the vulnerable shaft of / Well 5 and ultimately into Walkerton’s Municipal drinking / water system. The resulting contamination of the town’s / drinking water system lead to the deaths of seven people and / caused thousands of others to fall ill. It is hoped that all those / who visit this location will reflect upon the multiple causes of / this tragedy and will be filled with a renewed reverence for the / comprehensive stewardship of the waters that sustain us all.”

Finding the well was a moving moment, and as the plaque suggested, my mother and I took some time to reflect as we looked into the farmer’s field and at the old well.

Lasting Impact

The story of Walkerton didn’t end in 2000. For many survivors, the contamination left behind long-term health complications that they will carry for the rest of their lives. One of those people was Robbie Schnurr, who became seriously ill during the outbreak.7 The illness damaged his kidneys and digestive system, leaving him to cope with constant pain and health struggles for nearly two decades.7

In May of 2018, Robbie made the heartbreaking decision to end his life through Medical Assistance in Dying (MAID).7 He was just 51 years old. The illness caused by Walkerton’s poisoned water was just too heavy a toll.7 Robbie’s story is a reminder that the impact of what happened in Walkerton wasn’t confined to the weeks of the outbreak. It rippled out for years, forever altering lives and families.

Moving Forward

One of the outcomes of the Walkerton Inquiry was a complete overhaul of Ontario’s drinking water regulations. New laws were brought in to ensure public accountability, proper testing, and better training for those operating municipal water systems—all with the goal of making sure something like this never happens again.2

And yet, even in 2025, not every community in Canada can count on that promise. Some First Nation reserves continue to struggle with unsafe drinking water, some living under boil-water advisories that have lasted for years.8

It’s a frustrating and heartbreaking reality. Safe drinking water should be a basic human right, not a privilege.

Visiting Walkerton was an educational and somber experience. Standing at the memorial fountain, walking through the cemetery, and pausing at Well #5 all carried more weight than just stops on a road trip. It was a chance to reflect on a tragedy that forever shaped this small town, and to see how its lessons continue to make Ontario’s communities safer today.

Twenty-five years later, the Walkerton water tragedy remains a powerful reminder of what’s at stake when safety is ignored. It also reminds us of the resilience of a community that continues to honour those lost, while moving forward with a commitment to never forget.

Thanks for reading!


References:

  1. Inside Walkerton: Canada’s worst-ever E. coli contamination | CBC
  2. Commemorating Walkerton – 20 Years Later | Drinking Water Source Protection Quinte Region
  3. New Walkerton Clean Water Centre Opens | Ontario.ca
  4. The Walkerton Tragedy | Globe and Mail
  5. Second funeral held in town with tainted water | CBC
  6. Walkerton Heritage Water Garden | Bruce Grey Simcoe
  7. In 2000, Walkerton’s poisoned water ruined his life. He decided it was time to end it | Toronto Star
  8. 30 years under longest boil-water advisory in Canada, Neskantaga First Nation pushes for new treatment plant | CBC

Cemetery Road Trip: Guess Where Trips

Who doesn’t love a road trip; especially one that is pre-planned for you? All you need is your sense of adventure, a full tank of gas, and someone to share it with!

I mentioned last week that I would share more details about the Guess Where Trips adventure that my mom and I did during our summer vacation. So, today on the blog, I wanted to introduce you to this fun company, if you haven’t already heard of them, and share a little bit more about how our adventure played out.

Marilu, the Travel Support Specialist at Guess Where Trips, gave me a Historic Haunts tour to try out for free, in return for an honest review. The Historic Haunts tour includes a couple of cemetery stops, so it was a perfect fit! This trip is a round-up of spooky and unusual attractions, leading you on a route full of haunted history and ghostly stories. My favorite kind of road trip!

Guess Where Trips

Guess Where Trips offers beautifully packaged, one-day surprise road trips that will take you to all manner of hidden gems in Canada and the United States. Inspired after creating a scavenger hunt-style road trip as a gift to her parents, Jess Off founded Guess Where Trips in January of 2020.1 These curated road trips encourage you to explore the road less traveled, while also supporting small businesses and communities along the way.1

Lots of meticulous planning and research goes into all 135 available trips. And they are working on creating new adventures all the time. On June 20th of this year, they released 13 new trips that feature Michigan, Ohio, and Indiana.

In a recent email, the Guess Where Trips team shared all the intricate work and planning that goes into designing their trips. A big part of their planning revolves around what they call their “magic map”, an evolving map filled with pinned locations that serve as a foundation for outlining their growing list of surprise road trips. 

I thought their magic map looked pretty similar to my master map of Ontario cemeteries. Although mine focuses on cemetery locations, there are a few hiking trails, and museums pinned on there. I use my map a bit differently, using it to track visited sites (the grey pins) and as a starting point for creating location-specific maps for my cemetery road trips.  

The Historic Haunts tour was the first ghostly trip created by Jess Off and her team and was initially most popular around the Halloween season. Today, all their haunted trips have become popular regardless of the season. Some of the other spooky trips they offer in Ontario are Weird and Wonderful ThingsSpooky Sights & Ghostly TalesBeautifully Haunted, and Hidden Gems of Huronia.

They offer an adventure for everyone! If haunted hidden gems are not your thing, you might enjoy one of their other themed trips. They have trips that feature wineries, and breweries, romantic getaways, scenic drives, and outdoorsy adventures.

My Guess Where Adventure

The Historic Haunts tour begins in Cambridge, Ontario which is about a 4-and-a-half-hour drive from me. So, my mother and I packed up the car and took advantage of the nice summer weather to make an overnight trip. We drove up to the tri-city on Thursday, with plans to follow the surprise road trip all day on Friday. Then we would drive home on the Saturday. This gave us some extra time to explore the area, so I found some other things for us to do as well.

Friday morning, after a nice breakfast, we opened our first envelope to see where our first stop would take us. It brought us to downtown Cambridge to explore the architecture and haunted history of some of its older buildings. With coffee in hand, we sat outside the beautiful stone building that was once a Post Office, and read the tragic tale of a torrid love affair that ended in suicide. Even though it was a bright sunny morning, it was still a bit spooky to be looking up at so much dark history.

Our second stop brought us to a beautiful historic house and art gallery. We were a little early, arriving before they opened for the day, so we decided to explore the optional spooky abandoned spot that was just around the corner—The Doon Mills Ruins. 

Things got a little interesting at this point. The Doon Mills, originally built in 1834 have seen many tragedies, having burned in a fire not once, but twice! Today, many people report ghostly occurrences at this small section of ruins that sit at the trailhead. People claim to have heard ghostly footsteps or even heard their name called. Almost as soon as we arrived at the ruins, my mother complained of a burning wood smell. I didn’t smell anything though. My mom got a little creeped out when I reminded her that smelling burning wood was something many people experienced when visiting the ruins. 

We made our way back to the Homer Watson House & Gallery once it had opened for the day, and was given a lovely tour by the staff. They made sure to tell us the haunted history of the place when we told them we were on the Haunted History tour. It is a beautiful house with a very interesting history. After exploring the house, I just had to ask where Homer Watson might be buried. It just so happens that he is laid to rest in the cemetery just down the road from the historic house, so my mother and I made an extra stop to visit his grave and pay our respects.

Remember how I mentioned I had found some other things for us to visit while we were in Cambridge for the tour? Well, that ended up mucking up our surprise road trip a little bit. The third stop on our road trip directed us to a haunted tower and an ancient cemetery. Well, it just so happens that my mother and I had visited this location the day before. It was a perfect evening activity as it checked a lot of boxes for us; a historic site, a cemetery, and a walking trail. At the time of our visit though, we had no idea the tower was haunted.

By this time it was also the lunch hour, so instead of visiting that location again, we decided to try one of the recommended restaurant stops. We visited the Borealis Grille & Bar to have some lunch and read through some of the haunted history of the tower we visited the evening before. After that nice rest, we opened our next envelope.

Our fourth envelope presented a choose-your-own-adventure opportunity. So it worked out that we had already visited the previous stop. This gave us more time to visit multiple locations on this leg of our road trip adventure.

We chose to visit Rushes Cemetery in Wellesley first. I was pretty excited to see this listed as the first optional stop. There is a very interesting gravestone in this cemetery, and it has been on my cemetery bucket list for a while. This cemetery is the final resting place of Henrietta and Susanna, the first and second wives of Dr. Samuel Bean. What makes this stone so unique is the fact that this tombstone is written in a crossword code, and it took over 100 years to decode it. 

After I took some time to photograph the cemetery we made our way to Fergus to visit the Wellington Museum & Archives. By the time we got there, we would have just enough time for a quick tour before they closed for the day. 

Once known as the Wellington County House of Industry and Refuge, built in 1877, this beautiful building now houses a permanent display of the Institution’s history, as well as a few changing exhibits. The permanent exhibit “If These Walls Could Speak” explores the lives of the people who lived, worked, and died within the walls of the Poor House. It’s not surprising this National Historic site is also home to a few ghosts. 

After we toured the building, taking in all the interesting exhibits and history we made our way down the road to visit the Poorhouse Cemetery. This cemetery sits at the edge of the property and was established for those who had no family to claim them. After we paid our respects at the cemetery, we headed back to Cambridge to have some supper and rest at the hotel. 

Our Historic Haunts tour was a great success. My mother and I had a lot of fun exploring and learning about the community and local history. It was a great mix of haunted history, museums, and cemeteries. Although we did add a couple of cemetery stops to our trip, it made sense to stop in and pay our respects after learning so much about their history. 

I also loved the surprise element and the choose-your-own-adventure style. Opening each envelope was a fun addition that created a sense of anticipation. The multiple options also gave you the freedom to choose how your route was going to unfold. The restaurant and cafe options were also great additions, taking into account that you may get hungry or need a coffee break during all the exploring. It is so well thought out!   

I asked my mom what she thought of the trip and she loved that all the planning is done for you and that it was really easy to follow. She also loved all the history that is provided for each stop, her favorite being the tragic tale of love and loss at the Old Post Office. She loved the beautiful architecture but noted that we would have never known about its tragic history, just by looking at the building. She said it was a great adventure!

We had a great time, and we both would recommend these trips to anyone looking for a unique adventure. So if you are looking for road trip ideas, definitely check out Guess Where Trips and let them lead you to some fun and fascinating destinations! 

Thanks for reading!


References:

  1. About Us | Guess Where Trips

Stone Stories: The Abandoned Highway Bookshop

When I was a child, my family often made trips to Quebec to visit extended family. My father loved to use the shortcut through Field, as it cut about 30 miles off our five-hour drive to Val d’Or. We always stopped for a meal at the McDonald’s beside Ms. Claybelt, the 12-foot-tall Holstein cow. 

On the way back from our family visits we would add another stop to our route, which also became a road trip tradition. That was stopping at a small unassuming Book Shop that sits beside Highway 11. 

I have many fond memories of this little highway book shop, that today sits abandoned. Just like the many books that have sat on the now neglected shelves, the Book Shop has its own interesting story to tell.

The Highway Book shop

When Douglas Pollard opened his small print shop, called Pollard Press in 1957, I don’t think he ever imagined how big it would become. What started as a small commercial print shop in his garage, printing general office stationary eventually turned into a Northern cultural landmark.1

The story goes that one of Pollard’s customers asked to barter used books instead of cash to pay his bills. From then on the demand for books became greater and the shop expanded many times over the years to accommodate the growing collection of books.1 

Being originally a print shop, it was a natural move for Pollard to start printing and publishing books in the 1970s2. 467 original titles were published through the Highway Book Shop, focusing on local history and Canadian literature.1

What started as a 20’ x 25’ wooden building eventually expanded into a 10,000 square footprint, consisting of building add-ons and even three highway trailers that were used to store nothing but books.2 No wonder so many people made it a mandatory stop in their travels, sometimes just to experience the sheer size of its collection. 

I remember as a young girl getting lost among the stacks of books. It was so mind-blowing to me that the staff could find anything in that sea of books. However, the inventory was well maintained and kept very up-to-date. The Book Shop even maintained a list for those looking for specific titles. You could add your name to the list with your desired title and eventually, you might get a call that your book was found. Naturally, this could take some time, even years!2 

Pollard, and his first wife Jean Ririe Hope, spent a lot of time at book fairs and conventions, always on the hunt for good books to add to their shop. Pollard even purchased lots of discarded Library books, that were sometimes hit-or-miss for quality. 

After Pollard’s first wife passed away, he eventually remarried and brought his second wife into the fold of the Highway Book Shop. Mary Lois Williams was a Librarian with a Master of Library Science from the University of Toronto. She left the Librarian life trading it to work in the Book Shop when she married Pollard in 1986.3  

After Pollard died in 2009, Lois worked to keep the Book Shop running. It was a valiant effort, but she ultimately decided to close the shop in 2011. At 87 years old, her heart was just not in the same way anymore.

Visiting Cobalt

I visited Cobalt in October of 2022 with my mother. We wanted to take advantage of the fall colors and visit some local historical sites. We also wanted to visit Douglas and Lois Pollard in the cemetery, to pay our respects.

We spent most of our time in Cobalt visiting the Heritage Silver Trail, a self-guided trail system that takes you to 14 locations throughout the small town, that highlights the history of the silver mining rush. Unfortunately, when we visited, a lot of places were closed. This was also the case of the bookstore we had hoped to visit, White Mountain Publications.

White Mountain Publications was high on our list to visit as it houses some books that were rescued from the Highway Book Shop after it closed. I was hoping to speak to someone about how many books were rescued and if there were plans to rescue more. White Mountain also published a book that I was hoping to purchase on this trip, called Highway Book Shop: Northern Ontario’s Unexpected Treasure written by Lois Pollard. I ended up purchasing the book through White Mountain’s website instead. 

Of course, there were many cemetery stops planned for this trip, but the one we wanted to visit most was the Cobalt Veterans Cemetery. This cemetery is located in Haileybury, a small town adjacent to Cobalt. The cemetery sits beside two other cemeteries; directly beside Mount Pleasant Cemetery, and across the road from the Haileybury Catholic Cemetery. 

The Cobalt Veterans Cemetery is the smallest of the three, although Find a Grave lists 332 memorials. I would not have thought there were that many laid to rest there based on the cemetery’s small size. It did make finding the Pollards less of a challenge. 

Douglas Pollard passed away on November 25, 2009, at the age of 84. His obituary states that he passed away suddenly at Temiskaming Hospital4, but in her book Highway Book Shop, Lois briefly touches on that fateful night. Like any other normal day, after closing time Pollard went upstairs to retire for the night, as they lived in a small apartment above the book shop. When she followed him upstairs, only ten minutes later, she found that he had “quietly passed away”. Doctors confirmed that he had died of cardiac arrest.2 

Douglas is laid to rest beside his second wife, Lois Pollard who passed away on January 3, 2020, at the age of 98. Their gravestone reads: “Pollard / Douglas C. Pollard. C.M. / March 18, 1925 — Nov. 25, 2009 / Beloved Husband of / Mary Lois Williams / July 21, 1922 — Jan. 3, 2020”

Douglas’s first wife, Jean Pollard is laid to rest in Valleyview Cemetery in New Liskeard. Jean passed away in October of 1979, unexpectedly on the operating table during a planned second open-heart surgery.2

The Book Shop Today

The Book Shop closed its doors forever on May 29, 2011. In 2012 it was purchased by new owners, but the Book Shop never re-opened.5 Rumour has it that the inventory of approximately one million books1 was left behind on the shelves. As noted above, White Mountain Publishers did rescue some of the books, but is it true that the large majority were left behind? 

When we visited the Highway Book Shop on our way back home from visiting Cobalt, we took some time to walk around the building outside. The large sign that stands by the road that once welcomed visitors is slowly deteriorating. The building facade has peeled and faded over the years, and the grass is now growing wild. 

We were hoping to catch a glimpse of the stacks of books inside, instead, we got a whiff of the strong musty smell of old books. Depending on where you stand outside the front of the building, you can catch that unmistakable smell. I can just imagine what it must smell like inside the building.

While touring the grounds we chatted about our memories of visiting the Book Shop. My mother remembers speaking with Lois on our many visits over the years. We also talked about the books—about all the books that were left behind, and wondering about what types of books we could find given the chance. Both of us are not brave enough to cross into urban exploration territory, but luckily we are not the only curious ones.

The good people over at Freaktography have ventured inside to document what the Book Shop looks like today and prove once and for all that the rumor is true, they did leave the books behind. You can watch their video Exploring a HUGE Abandoned Book Store over on their YouTube channel

Their video and photos show a time capsule, and books in rows upon rows of bookshelves for as far as the eye can see. It looks just like I remember. I am not the only one who has tried to imagine what an abandoned building full of molding and rotting books might smell like. The folks at Freaktography have been asked the question before:

“I have been asked by people, “What did it smell like in there?”, it smells exactly like you would think it does – like old books. It has warm, thick air and the rows upon rows of books give a muffled sensation when talking, there is no echo and it is eerily silent.”6

I can only imagine how surreal it would be to walk through those stacks again. Watching the walk-through video does make me a bit sad though. So many books left behind. I wonder what unique and rare finds there might be, what treasure could be found. I mean a lot of those books might be dated and useless now, such as the maps and tech manuals. But just imagine what old and out-of-print finds there might be buried in there as well. 

Maybe one day someone will be given the go-ahead to slowly pour through those lost tomes, and bring some of them back into the light. I know I would love to, given the chance. 

It was really interesting looking into the backstory of this abandoned landmark, and a piece of my childhood. Learning about the lives and passions of the people who brought the Book Shop to life highlights the fact that there are so many interesting stories out there. 

Thanks for reading!


References:

  1. A Short History | Highway Books
  2. Highway Book Shop: Northern Ontario’s Unexpected Treasure by Lois Pollard | Book
  3. Mary Lois Williams Pollard | Find a Grave
  4. Dr. Douglas Charles Neil Pollard | Find a Grave
  5. Home | Highway Books
  6. Exploring a HUGE Abandoned Book Store | Freaktography Youtube Channel

Cemetery Road Trip: The Muskokas

It’s graving season again in Northern Ontario!

Two weeks ago, I went on my first cemetery road trip of 2024. I was inspired by a book I read at the end of March, called Muskoka’s Most Haunted 2 by Andrew Hind. I have read a few of Hind’s books that have inspired some cemetery road trips, but this one was a bit serendipitous. I was already planning a trip to the Muskokas this summer and had a few cemeteries mapped out, one of which just so happened to be featured in the book. I took that, and the warmer weather, as a sign it was time to get back in the field. 

The Muskoka District is located north of Lake Simcoe and extends from the southeast shore of Georgian Bay to Algonquin Provincial Park.1 Sometimes referred to as cottage country, the Muskoka area is well known for its beautiful landscapes and rugged shorelines.

The Muskokas are also home to many charming small towns. They dot the landscape among picturesque parks. It is so well known, that many celebrities spend their summer vacations here. In 2023, Shaquille O’Neal, Mark Wahlberg, and Victoria & David Beckham were all spotted in the Muskokas enjoying everything the summer has to offer.2

Small towns are usually accompanied by cemeteries. For this trip, I planned a route that would take us up and around Lake Muskoka. There are many cemeteries in the area, so I was uncertain how many we would actually be able to visit. 

We left bright and early on the morning of Easter Monday, stopping for our obligatory road trip coffee before officially getting on the road. We planned to visit as many cemeteries as we could, while also visiting any attractions that may be open, and of course, stopping for a meal. That second item on the list was a little uncertain as the holiday meant that some places would be closed.

Our first cemetery stop, after enjoying the winding views in Bala, was Torrance Union Cemetery. Since it was so early in the morning, it was a bit chilly out but we still took our time exploring. We spent quite a bit of time at this cemetery, but I don’t want to go into too much detail just yet about our visit. This cemetery has some very interesting stories attached to it that I want to explore a little more in October.

Our next stop was the larger town of Gravenhurst. We made another stop for coffee and then stopped in at the three cemeteries within the city limits. We will have to go back to Gravenhurst sometime in the summer to take in the views of the waterfront and visit some attractions. That’s always the downfall of visits on a statutory holiday—everything is closed.

After a leisurely lunch at Chuck’s Roadhouse in Bracebridge, we decided to change things up a bit. Our next stop was the Woodchester. This beautiful octagonal home is a historic site, that is also an event space. It too was closed when we visited, but many walking trails surround it. Some of the trails have historical plaques that tell the story of the house and its previous owners. We were able to walk the circumference of the house and look at building maps that show what the layout of the inside looked like, when it was lived in. 

The Bracebridge walking trails meander alongside the Muskoka River and waterfalls. The waterfalls were strong and thundering when we visited. Unfortunately, part of the trail was closed off, most likely due to possible flooding, so we didn’t get to enjoy the full trail. The views were still lovely though and it was a nice way to break up our day. 

After that little pit stop, we visited three more cemeteries. The Annie Williams Memorial Cemetery was the smallest cemetery we visited that day. Only three people rest in that cemetery, which sits in the middle of a park and playground. This tiny gated cemetery sits under some large trees, only a few feet away from an active playground that often hears the boisterous sounds of children playing. It also sits a foot or two away from a popular little library, that was bursting at the seams with books.

As the day waned, it was time to start making our way back home. But we couldn’t help but stop at one more cemetery. Our last cemetery stop of the day was Port Carling Cemetery. That marked the end of our loop around Lake Muskoka.

This trip was a lot of fun! We ended up visiting a total of eight cemeteries, not bad for a first-time out after the cold of winter. We had beautiful weather that warmed up as the day went on which made our visits comfortable. Which means the weather can only get better from here. I look forward to my next outing and seeing where cemeteries take me. 

Thanks for reading!


References: 

  1. Muskoka | Destination Ontario
  2. This Canadian Town Is A Magnet For A-Listers On Vacation— Here Are 8 Celebs That Were Spotted There This Summer | Buzzfeed

Cemeteries:

  1. Torrance Union Cemetery also known as Whitting Family and Church Cemetery, Torrance
  2. St. James Anglican Cemetery, Gravenhurst
  3. Lakeview Cemetery, Gravenhurst
  4. Mickle Memorial Cemetery, Gravenhurst
  5. Bracebridge United Cemetery, Bracebridge
  6. Annie Williams Memorial Cemetery, Bracebridge
  7. Saint Thomas Cemetery, Bracebridge
  8. Port Carling Cemetery, Port Carling

Puddingstone

Have you ever heard of Puddingstone?

I first came across puddingstone while visiting cemeteries on St. Joseph Island. My mother and I visited the island in 2022, with plans to visit every cemetery on the island. We started to notice many gravestones made out of this unique stone. We also found large pieces of it left at gravesites, and in one instance possibly used as a temporary marker. I wanted to learn more about this peculiar stone.

During our visit to the island, we had a private tour of Adcock’s Woodland Gardens. The gardens, that sprawl for acres, are filled with beautiful trails and ponds, and hundreds of varieties of plants and flowers. My mother was in heaven. At the end of the tour, as we were heading back to the car, I noticed a cute little wishing well that looked to be made out of the same spotted stone we found in the cemeteries. I asked our tour guide about it. Grant, the owner of Adcock’s Woodland Gardens, was happy to share that this type of rock, native to the St. Joseph Island area is called Puddingstone. 

Puddingstone is everywhere on the island. When we visited Historic Fort St. Joseph, we were greeted by a large boulder of puddingstone at the entrance of the Visitor Centre. Since puddingstone is native to the area, when my mother and I toured the ruins, we spent some time at the water’s edge to see what we could find. Although we did find a few interesting rocks and pebbles, we didn’t find any puddingstone. There was also a sign at the waterfront asking that nothing be taken from the area. It is an archaeological site after all. 

On our way out, we of course checked out the little gift shop. Alas, no puddingstone for sale. I was a little disappointed because there was a beautiful piece of puddingstone sitting at their front desk. It was a baseball-sized chunk, that was mostly all natural and rough except for a smooth clean cut, showing the inside of the stone. 

We left the island without a sample of the stone, but I never forgot about it. I found it curious that it seemed like such a common material on the island, with countless gravestones made from it. I also found it curious that it was also a common grave good on the island. I wanted a little piece of my own.

What is Puddingstone? 

Puddingstone is a jasper conglomerate, a form of sedimentary rock composed of rounded cobblestone and other pebble-sized fragments. Conglomerates are formed by river and ocean wave movement.1 In Canada, puddingstone is commonly found on St. Joseph Island and in Bruce Mines, Ontario.2 It is unique to this part of Algoma.

The name Puddingstone comes from British settlers who were stationed in the area, they thought the pale sedimentary rock, dotted with red and brown jasper, looked like “boiled suet pudding with berries”.3

The Last Spike Stone Cairn, a cairn marking the location of where the last spike was driven for the Canadian Pacific Railway, includes rocks from across Canada. Can you guess what stone was sent from Ontario?

That’s right, it was a piece of puddingstone from Bruce Mines.4

The search continues

I checked in with my local gem and mineral shops to see if they carried puddingstone. Surprisingly, they didn’t know what it was. My next thought was to look at any upcoming gem and mineral shows or fairs.

I stopped in at the Galaxy Psychic & Crystal Fair. This weekend event happens annually in the Spring and Fall, but this was my first time attending. I thought there might be some gem and crystal vendors who might be able to help me. Again, no one knew what puddingstone was. One vendor was curious as to what puddingstone was used for. With a Google search, we discovered that it’s thought to have many metaphysical properties and benefits, with dream recall being one.5 She suggested that may be why I was searching for it. Maybe? I was more interested in its use in cemeteries. 

I decided it might be time to visit Bruce Mines again. I planned a cemetery road trip for the summer of 2023. The plan was to visit a few cemeteries, check out some antique shops, have a chip truck lunch, and visit the Bruce Mines Museum. I had read a well-timed Back Roads Bill article about some of the oldest graves in Northern Ontario, and there just so happened to be one in Bruce Mines. According to the article, the Bruce Mines Museum has in its collection, a wooden grave marker that is dated October 6th, 1850, and March 20th, 1851, for two victims of the 1849 cholera epidemic.6

Unfortunately, the Museum was closed when we arrived. I did double-check the operating hours before going, but I found out later that the Museum was short-staffed that summer, and didn’t always follow their posted hours. But we did get to see more Puddingstone. There are a few large pieces of puddingstone decorating the museum grounds.

My mother and I were both a bit disappointed that we didn’t get to visit the museum, but it wasn’t the end of our trip. We still had some antique shops to visit. We saw a lot of interesting items in the shops, but no puddingstone for sale. I did make sure to ask. At the last shop we visited, my mother found a couple of interesting books, so while she was cashing out I asked the clerk if they had any puddingstone. At this point, I didn’t expect them to have any, and they didn’t. 

But they knew where I could find some!

I was directed to a small artists workshop, that doubles as a gift shop called S&S Creations. To my surprise, the shop was full of puddingstone! The shop features beautiful stained glass artwork, that uses traditional stained glass, but also very thinly cut puddingstone. There was puddingstone in all shapes and forms—from book ends and coasters to large stone pieces and jewelry.

The shop belongs to artist Stephanie and her husband and stone cutter, Steve. With over ten years of experience, they take on projects of all sizes, from furniture and custom work to more delicate art pieces and home accessories. No one up to this point had any idea what puddingstone was, so I was so happy to talk to Stephanie. She told me that she had encountered the same thing, and found it as strange as I did. I guess Puddingstone is a hidden gem!

She asked me how I learned about puddingstone and I told her about my passion for visiting cemeteries, and how the gravestones had piqued my curiosity. It turns out that Stephanie and her shop were responsible for the creation of a lot of the puddingstone markers I had visited. We had a very good conversation, and I was able to finally get my own piece of Puddingstone.

I always find it interesting where cemeteries take me, and this was a fun example of that. There is always something new to be learned. I wonder where cemeteries will take me next?

Thanks for reading!


References:

  1. Sedimentary Rocks | Oregon State University
  2. Puddingstone (rock) | Wikipedia
  3. Puddingstones | Drummond Island Tourism Association
  4. Alex knows Puddingstone | Parks Canada
  5. Puddingstone | All Crystal
  6. Back Roads Bill takes us to the oldest graves in Ontario | Sudbury.com

Stone Stories: Canada’s First Black Mayor

Last October, My mother and I took a little road trip to Mattawa. We planned on doing some hiking, visiting cemeteries, and enjoying the fall colors. We always like to visit local museums when we visit new places, and the Mattawa Museum did not disappoint. We had a great time touring the grounds and learned a lot about the history of the city, including that it has the distinction of having Canada’s first elected Black mayor. 

Mattawa, located in northeastern Ontario is a little over two hours drive from me. Mattawa is located where the Mattawa and Ottawa Rivers merge, in Nipissing District. The name Mattawa means “Meeting of the Waters” in Ojibwa.1 It is the oldest settlement in the Nipissing District, and today showcases that historic past with beautiful wooden sculptures. Many wooden sculptures of historic figures, important to Mattawa’s history, can be found scattered throughout the town.1

It was an overcast day when we visited Mattawa, but it didn’t deter us from exploring. We admired the two wooden sculptures on the museum grounds and looked for the three white crosses, that stand high on Québec Hill across the Mattawa river. The three crosses were erected in 1686 by missionary priests to mark the place where the two rivers meet.2

Inside the museum, we found a treasure trove of artifacts; paintings by a well-known Mattawa painter, many indigenous artifacts, and a large exhibit about Canada’s first Black Mayor, Dr. S. F. Monestime. The exhibit features large panels with many photos and a history of what brought Monestime to Mattawa, and how he changed the community for the better. The exhibit also includes some of his personal items, like his signature fedora and a medical skull used in his practice. My Mother and I were both interested in this exhibit the most, and were surprised that we had never heard of him before. We made it a point to pay our respects at the cemetery.

Dr. Saint Firmin Monestime

Saint Firmin Monestime was born in Cape Haitian, Haiti in December of 1909. Monestime grew up during the United States occupation of Haiti, which took place from 1916 to 1935. He graduated with a medical degree from the University of Haiti Medical School, and after graduation was named Medical Officer for the International Route between Haiti and the Dominican Republic.3 He experienced a lot during his medical career in Haiti, living through mass casualty events. He received the Knight of the National Order of Honor and Merit, awarded to those of distinguished excellence. He wrote four books around this time, about rural medicine.3

After becoming frustrated with the politics and what he called “deplorable conditions”, Monestime quietly left Haiti for Quebec. He was part of the first small group of Haitian professionals to come to Quebec in the 1940s. Unfortunately, this meant starting over as he had to train and intern for several years to get his full Canadian medical accreditation.3

Monestime found his way to Mattawa almost by chance. He and another colleague were traveling through Mattawa on their way to Timmins to see about setting up a medical practice. They stopped in for lunch at Chez Francois in Mattawa, and it just so happened that the restaurant owner recognized Dr. Monestime, as he had been operated on by the Doctor in Ottawa. The timing was right. The long-standing doctor in Mattawa had recently passed away and the town needed a new doctor. The restaurant also had a vacant room to rent and office space. Monestime agreed to stay, temporarily, but ended up staying indefinitely.3

Monestime found the community to be very welcoming and their generosity encouraged him to stay. His medical practice was booming with a busy office as well as on-call work with the hospital. That’s not to say that he didn’t experience racism in his time there.3 In 1972, he was asked by a reporter if race ever came into play, Monestime replied:

“My practice was booming in no time and from then until now I’ve had no serious problems. You might find a very few—and not the most intelligent—who may say they won’t come to see me because of my race. But very few.”3

Three months after Dr. Martin Luther King gave his “I Have a Dream” speech in 1963, Dr. St. F. Monestime also made history by being elected the first Black mayor in Canada. An active political figure in good standing within the community, regarded for his sense of justice and equality, he was elected mayor nine times.3 Today, the legacy of Dr. Monestime continues and is still felt vibrantly within the community as his family continues to do good works. The most notable of these works is the Algonquin Nursing Home, a project championed by Monestime in his last years.

On October 27, 1977, Dr. Monestime passed away at the age of 67, most likely from pancreatic cancer, which he battled multiple times throughout his life. His Russian Orthodox funeral service took place at St. Anne’s Roman Catholic Church in Mattawa.3 He is buried in the Petschersky Monestime family plot at Pine Hill Union cemetery.

He is laid to rest beside his son Fedeor, who sadly was accidentally shot and killed a year earlier on February 29, during an altercation outside of Chez Francois.3 Monestimes’ wife, Zena, and her mother are also laid to rest in the family plot, which features a large Eastern Cross. The Eastern Cross or Orthodox Cross has a tilted bar at the base of the cross; a tilted footrest. This is meant to illustrate that the thief crucified on the left side of Christ, thought to be the wise thief, went up to heaven, while the thief crucified on the right side was thought to be unrepentant, and went down to hell.4

My visit to Mattawa was an eye-opening trip. After exploring the exhibit at the museum, we stopped at the gift shop and spoke with the museum curator after buying a few things. We had a great conversation about the museum contents and how sometimes history is hidden in plain sight. 

If you’re interested in learning more about Dr. Monestime, I highly recommend a visit to the Mattawa Museum and also picking up a copy of Where Rivers Meet by Doug Mackey. It’s a well-researched look at the life of Dr. Monestime and also explores life in Haiti as well as Black history in Canada. 

Thanks for reading!


References:

  1. What About Mattawa? | Town of Mattwa
  2. The Three Crosses | Mattawa Museum
  3. Where rivers Meet: The Story of Dr. S. F. Monestime, Canada’s First Black Mayor by Doug Mackey | Book
  4. Understanding Cemetery Symbols: A Field Guide for Historic Graveyards by Tui Snider | Book

Stone Stories: The U.F.O. Gravestone

In early July, my friends and I went on a cemetery road trip, up through Hailybury and New Liskeard to Kirkland Lake. We made quite a few stops along the way, not only at cemeteries. We stopped at a couple of roadside attractions to stretch our legs and take in the sights. 

We did have a few points of interest that we were determined to visit that day. One was the grave of Charles Bélanger, son of famous Canadian sculptor Rose-Aimée Bélanger. You may remember that story, as I wrote about our visit in a blog post called Stone Stories: Art in a Cemetery

The other point of interest, high on our list to see was a gravestone with an epitaph about U.F.O.s.

One of my favorite things about visiting cemeteries is finding unique gravestones. I love gravestones that stand out, that showcase a sense of humor, or something specific about their life story. I love stones that give you a glimpse of who the person was. Sometimes these peculiar gravestones also present a mystery! 

Like this gravestone in Kirkland Lake Cemetery that reads “U.F.O. Are Real Spacecraft.”

This is the gravestone of Glenn Bradley, who passed away on December 27, 2007. A day before what would have been his 89th birthday. From far away, his gravestone doesn’t seem to stand out. It’s a classic style headstone, in grey granite. But upon closer inspection, the epitaph jumps out at you.

It reads: “Bradley / Glenn E. Bradley / Dec. 28, 1918 — Dec. 27, 2007 / Loving Father of / Linda Sue and Terri Lynn / Beloved Grandfather of / Michelle, Curtis, Anthony, Pamela / U.F.O. Are Real Spacecraft.”

The epitaph continues on the backside of the stone: “Spinning Objects Vanquish Gravity / Spinning Objects Levitate / Spin to Exceed the Earths / Relative Feet Per Second / Honorable 60th C.B. Service / 1942 U.S. Navy 1945”

What does it mean? 

I am not the only one fascinated with this gravestone. Bill Steer, also known as Back Roads Bill, wrote an interesting article about this peculiar stone. In it, he shares an interesting tidbit found in Bradley’s obituary. It reads: “He will be remembered for his scientific work such as antigravity and his belief in UFOs.”1

Bradley’s gravestone tells us that he was a veteran of World War II with the U.S. Navy, having served from 1942 to 1945. Is that where he worked on antigravity? Had he seen a U.F.O.?

Recently, NASA revealed a report on UFO sightings, confirming that they are actively monitoring and collecting evidence. In the report, they state that unidentified anomalous phenomena (UAP) are not definitively connected to alien life, but what they are remains uncertain.2 You can read the 33-page report here.

It was on a particularly hot day, that we chose to visit the cemetery. It was the final cemetery on our list, having stopped at many cemeteries along the way. This meant that we were fairly tired when we arrived at the Kirkland Lake Cemetery, also known as Swastika Cemetery. 

Kirkland Lake Cemetery is actually located in Swastika, Ontario, a former mining and railroad town. It sits within the Kirkland Lake municipal boundaries.3 Swastika was originally a railway station along the Temiskaming and Northern Ontario Railway in the early 1900s. The town grew into a small mining community in 1907. It became known for its abundance of gold, which led the company, and officially the town itself, to name themselves after the Sanskrit symbol for “good luck” in 1908.4 

I don’t think we were prepared for how large this cemetery is! I was a little disheartened when we arrived, thinking we may not be able to find the fabled UFO stone. Find a Grave lists 7,871 memorials for this cemetery, and it’s marked as only 83% photographed. It’s quite large! 

After a brief distraction of falling into my regular photographer’s routine of stopping at gravestones that caught my eye, I remembered our objective. I regrouped with my companions and checked out Google one more time to point us in the right direction. In the end, we used some online photos to help us triangulate the stone’s location by matching up unique stones and markers in the background of the photos.

BINGO!

As mentioned previously, the stone from a distance is fairly nondescript. At the top of the gravestone, there is a coin embedded into it, with the dates 1937 — 1970. The coin reads: “E.W. Bliss Company / Bliss since 1857 / From Ingot to Finished Product”. According to the Military Wiki page, E.W. Bliss was an American company based in Brooklyn, New York. Among other things, they produced a line of special sheet metal work presses, power stamping machines, car parts, torpedoes, shrapnel, and armor-piercing projectiles.5

We spent time circling Bradley’s gravestone, pondering his curious epitaph. Without more background information, and as a layperson it did make me scratch my head in curiosity.

Maybe one day, answers will come forth as to what Bradley was talking about with his cryptically scientific epitaph. For now, it makes for a curious extraterrestrial mystery!

Have you ever seen a U.F.O. mentioned on a gravestone before? What do you think? Do you want to believe?

Thanks for reading!


References:

  1. A most unusual epitaph | Bay Today
  2. NASA reveals results of highly anticipated report into UFO sightings | CTV News
  3. Kirkland Lake Cemetery | Find a Grave
  4. Swastika, Ontario | Town of Swastika
  5. E. W. Bliss Company | Military Wiki

Stone Stories: Art in a Cemetery

When people ask me why I love cemeteries so much, I often say it’s because they are great places to learn about art and history. Today on the blog I wanted to share a recent cemetery visit that is a perfect example of this.

On the Canada Day long weekend, some friends and I took advantage of the nice weather to explore some areas in the Temisikaming District. We toured around Temagami, and up to Kirkland Lake. We visited 18 cemeteries that day, (New Record!) and found some really interesting things along the way. A day or two before we left for our cemetery road trip, one of my friends learned about an interesting gravestone in a cemetery in Earlton. 

We made it a priority to find it. 

In one of my friend’s work offices, they have a bronze sculpture created by a famous Canadian sculptor. When describing the artist’s work, it was mentioned that one of her sculptures sits atop a gravestone, in Earlton, Ontario. I’ve always thought of cemeteries as open-air art galleries, and this gravestone proves that point. 

That famous French Canadian sculptor is Rose-Aimée Bélanger. She was born in 1923 in Guérin Quebec,1 but lived most of her life in the small township of Armstrong, near New Liskeard.2 In 1945, she began her studies at l’École des Beaux-Arts de Montréal but paused her studies to marry and raise nine children. It wasn’t until thirty years later, that she would return to her love of sculpture.1

Her work, in clay and bronze, mainly depicts women frozen in everyday moments. Her work is informed by her own life experiences, and inspired by her community.1 Arguably her most famous, and most photographed work is Les Chuchoteuses (The Gossipers), which can be found in Montreal, Quebec.

Another of her bronze sculptures can be found on top of the grave of her son Charles Bélanger, in St. Jean Baptiste Cemetery. Charles rests beside his father, Laurent Bélanger, and the future resting place of his mother. One of nine children, Charles passed away of pneumonia in 1951 in Timmins, Ontario. 

Shortly after we visited Charles’s resting place, my friend had the chance to meet Pierre Bélanger, Charles’ brother. He shared that young Charles was eventually moved to the Bélanger family plot in Earlton from Timmins when his mother, Rose, felt she was ready.

The final resting place of the Bélangers can be found in St. Jean Baptiste Cemetery, in the small town of Earlton Ontario. The cemetery is a fairly small one, although Find a Grave does list 797 memorials for this cemetery.4 I had some trouble trying to locate this cemetery on a map, but after reaching out to a fellow taphophile on Find a Grave, I had the address and coordinates and we were able to find the cemetery easily.

The epitaph, written in French, reads: “In loving memory of / Charles / son of / Laurent and / Rose-Aimée Bélanger / died February 17, 1951 / at the age of 1 year 8 months.”

It didn’t take us long to find this beautiful sculpture, as it does stand out a little bit among the gravestones. Possibly bronze in color at one time, the sculpture now has a dark patina. The sculpture depicts a small cherub of a child sitting on top of a granite square. He holds out his hand where a small bird has perched. He looks down wistfully at the little bird in his small hand. He is dressed in what might be a little linen jumper and has two small angel wings protruding from his back.

You can tell right away, this sweet tribute was made with love. From the angel wings to the soft look of the face, the attention to detail is impressive. I love the little dimples on the hand. It is a poignant symbol of a mother’s love, expressed in the most natural medium for her. It must have been a cathartic experience creating this piece.

Sculpture by Rose-Aimée Bélanger, that sits on top of the grave of her son Charles Bélanger. Photos: St. Jean Baptiste Cemetery, Earlton ON ©2023

My friends and I paid our respects to Charles and Laurent, lingering to admire Roses’ beautiful work. We were very happy that we were able to visit. I have always said that cemeteries are the perfect place to go for a walk, enjoy nature and look at beautiful art. And in this case, explore some Canadian art history. 

Rose-Aimée Bélanger celebrated her 100th birthday this year, on July 4th. In celebration, she also unveiled a new sculpture. Titled Appeasement, her new work can be found at the Canada House Gallery in Banff, Alberta.3 She has many art pieces in collections all over the world1, but you can see some of her beautiful artwork while paying your respects at the cemetery.

Thanks for reading!


References:

  1. Artist Resume | Galerie Blanche
  2. 99 year old bronze sculptor celebrates new book | Bay Today
  3. Pour ses 100 ans, Rose-Aimée Bélanger dévoile une nouvelle œuvre | Radio-Canada
  4. St. Jean Baptiste Cemetery | Find a Grave

Stone Stories: The Screaming Heads

Writing these weekly blog posts, I often feel like a travel writer. Cemetery tourism is one of my favorite things! For this week’s blog post I wanted to share another cemetery road trip destination—The Screaming Heads.

At the beginning of June, I went on another Birthday weekend road trip. This trip was a mix of cemetery visits, museums, and attractions. We visited 15 cemeteries, played a game of Cemetery Bingo, and visited the Wiseman’s Corner Schoolhouse Heritage Centre, which happened to have a gravestone on its grounds. 

The main attraction of this trip, and the whole reason we visited Burk’s Falls, was to finally visit and experience The Screaming Heads, in Midlothian. We had talked about visiting for about the last 2 years but never managed to make our way there. So this year we made a special birthday trip to visit this unique resting place. You never know where you might find a cemetery.

The Screaming Heads is an ever-growing art installation created by Peter Camani, a Canadian artist, sculptor, and retired art teacher. This public open-air art gallery dots the landscape of his 310-acre property.Living among his artwork, Peter lives in the Midlothian Castle, which was built upon a 19th-century derelict farmhouse. 

There is a giant spider web gate made of stone and rebar that surrounds the castle. If the gate is open, you may get a chance to look inside and visit the artist’s studio and living space. Everywhere you look there are interesting details to admire, from the metallic dragon that breathes smoke when the fireplace is lit, to a giant head that houses a studio space within it, to the rows of smaller screaming heads that line the top wall of the gate. 

Located on Midlothian Road, near the small town of Burks’s Falls, The Screaming Heads is an off-the-beaten-path roadside attraction. You know you are getting close if you start spotting smaller screaming heads; like at the Burk’s Falls visitor center and the Wiseman’s Corner Schoolhouse Heritage Centre. Peter opens his property to tourists year-round, from dawn till dusk. You’ll find much more at this attraction than just amazing artwork. The property is also home to about 300 species of birds, including peacocks. Their eerie calls can be heard all around you as you hike through the open fields and bush. There is a small gift shop that has some neat Screaming Heads merch, and on weekends you might also find a small farmers market.

The main attraction is of course The Screaming Heads. The artist has described these 20-foot-tall concrete sculptures as a warning against environmental degradation, “the earth rebelling against what we’re doing to the land.”2 Peter has transformed this once barren farmland, by planting many of the trees on his property and propagating spring-fed ponds. His large concrete structures are arranged in such a way that they form the shape of a dragon when viewed from the air, although today the trees are so large they obscure some of the statues.2

Along with being a unique roadside attraction, The Screaming Heads can also be considered a cemetery. A small grouping of Screaming Heads stand out among the other round Edvard Munch-like sculptures. These tall narrow creations have cremated remains mixed into the concrete. On his website, which now seems to be defunct, the artist had a creative suggestion for where your final resting place could be when you pass away; “Why settle for a small underground plot in the suburbs, when you have the option of joining a vibrant creation that fills the landscape?”3 At one time, If you wanted to be memorialized in this open-air art gallery, you would need $10,000 to reserve your spot.3 Since the website is now gone, I am uncertain if this option still exists.

At the time of our visit, there were 4 human ash sculptures, with memorial plaques for 5 people.

“Gone but not forgotten” Memorial sculptures created with cremated remains. Artist: Peter Camani. Midlothian ON ©2023

Everyone’s experience with the Screaming Heads will be different, as there is no set way to explore the grounds. There is no trail map, and there are a few trailheads to choose from. When we visited, on an exceptionally warm day, we managed to come upon the memorial sculptures first. The photos don’t do them justice, as they are larger than life! We asked ourselves many times as we wandered the grounds, about the process of making these immense sculptures and what that might look like. 

There is something magical about this place. As you walk among these enormous, whimsical sculptures, it’s easy to feel like you are in a magical forest, where strange creatures may reveal themselves at any moment. I was filled with a sense of wonder as we walked through the woods and fields, discovering hidden sculptures as we got closer to them. The eerie sound of the peacocks also added to the experience. Their cries always seemed to surround us, and just when we thought we were close enough to see one, we would hear their scream from another direction. 

I can understand why someone would want their final resting place to be in such a magical place. The idea of becoming art, becoming part of something larger than yourself, to instill a sense of awe in others; that guarantees you will always be remembered.

Do you want to plan your own trip to visit The Screaming Heads? They are located in Midlothian, Ontario, close to the small town of Burk’s Falls. The grounds are open year-round, from dawn till dusk, and admission is by donation. Make sure to bring your camera, your water bottle, and LOTS of bug spray. Have you already visited? I would love to hear about your experience in the comments.

Thanks for reading! 


References:

  1. The Screaming Heads North of Muskoka | The Great Canadian Wilderness
  2. Peter Camani | Wikipedia
  3. How to Be Posthumously Transformed Into an 18-Foot Screaming Head | Slate

Additional Links:

Cemetery Road Trip: Graveyards in Grimsby

Today on the blog I wanted to share a little bit about my first cemetery road trip of the year! A couple of weekends ago, two of my best friends and I went on a fun-filled day of adventures to celebrate a birthday. We traveled over 900 km to visit Grimsby Ontario, in the Niagara Region—and it did not disappoint!

A month or so ago, my friend had asked to visit a graveyard for her birthday, as she had never visited one before. There are closer graveyards we could have visited, but since this was a special occasion I took some time to try and find the perfect spot. Weirdly enough, the internet provided the solution. Randomly, or not so randomly if you believe that technology listens to us, a video popped up in my Youtube feed by Canadian Cemetery History. I took the bait and watched the video. It showed a visit to Saint Andrew’s Anglican graveyard. This beautiful graveyard was just what we were looking for!

Not only does Saint Andrew’s Anglican Churchyard boast the 4th oldest church in the province, but it also has a lychgate and table stones. Both of which we have never seen before in person. So I began looking into what else we could visit in Grimsby; other cemeteries, museums, attractions, haunted locations, and of course interesting places to eat. I pitched the idea to the group, and they were as excited as I was to explore this beautiful little town. 

I continued to research things for us to do and managed to book us a private tour of the Nelles Manor Museum. We would be visiting the resting place of the Nelles family at Saint Andrew’s, so it made sense to visit their historic home and learn more about this prominent family. 

The day of the trip started bright and early. After picking up our first Starbucks of the day, we left Sudbury a little after 6 a.m. The plan was to drive straight to the graveyard, with a Starbucks stop along the way, to make the best time. Then we would take our time exploring, and visit the Nelles Manor at 3 p.m. for our private tour. 

We arrived at Saint Andrew’s Anglican graveyard at about 11 a.m. and got out to stretch our legs and explore. The graveyard was absolutely beautiful. As was the weather, we had a beautiful day for exploring. Right away we noticed the prominence of the Nelles family as they had their own family plot, as well as family members scattered throughout the graveyard. We would learn more about the Nelles family when we toured the Museum later in the day. 

Saint Andrew’s Anglican Churchyard, Grimsby ON ©2023

Saint Andrews Anglican Church and graveyard is located a stone’s throw away from the Nelles Manor. The current church building dates back to 1825. The graveyard is well-maintained and has a large number of historically important grave markings. The land for the church was originally donated by Colonel Robert Nelles.1 The Nelles family plot is closest to the church on the left side of the churchyard, enclosed by a chain with small cast iron tassels hanging from it.

This graveyard also acts as an arboretum of sorts, with beautiful examples of different varieties of trees. Many were in full bloom when we visited. There is a lovely variety of gravestones to be found there as well, many of which I had not seen in person before, like the willow and urn motif, broken column symbolism, and closed books covered in cloth. It was curious to see the difference in popular cemetery symbols that we found. In the Sudbury area, lambs, doves, and hands are very common. There also stand the tallest tablet stones I have ever seen. They are taller than I am! The gravestones I was most looking forward to seeing in this graveyard were the table stones. I have not had the chance to see one in person yet, and I find them so unique and fascinating.

Table stones have an elevated ledger top, that provide space for a longer inscription, and is supported by four to six columns. This type of gravestone was popular during the first part of the 19th century.2 These types of stones were used for prominent people and were sometimes installed many years after the person’s death. In that instance, these stones would sometimes cover the original gravestone. These tabletop stones are often more worn, like the ones we saw, due to larger surface erosion, making the stones barely legible.3

After we wandered the entire graveyard, we took a break for lunch and then made our way back toward the Nelles Manor. We were a little bit early for our tour, but luckily there were a few points of interest in and around the Nelles Manor for us to explore while we waited. We visited the Trinity United graveyard, and the Grimsby Museum and grounds where we discovered more interesting Grimsby history. When it was time, we made our way a couple of houses over to visit the historic Nelles Manor Museum for our private tour. 

The Nelles Manor was built from 1788 to 1798, well before the American invasions in the War of 1812. The house was fully built and lived in by the Nelles family by the time the Americans declared war on the British. The Niagara Peninsula became a gateway for American fighting forces to work their way from the American frontier on the East side of the Niagara River as they reached for Burlington, York, and Kingston. Nelles Manor was occupied by British and local militia during the War of 1812, but on at least two occasions was also occupied by American forces that had moved up from Niagara.1

Nelles Manor Museum, Grimsby ON ©2023

We received a very warm welcome when we arrived at the Nelles Manor. Our tour guide Kate, and two other guides, were finely dressed in period clothing, which added to the authenticity of the experience. We started our tour outside, taking in the magnificent architecture of the building, as well as the warm weather. Our guide talked about the land where the Nelles Manor sits, and its connections to its surroundings. Our group found it very helpful that we had visited Saint Andrew’s, as well as the Grimsby Museum grounds before our tour. 

After moving inside, we were treated to a walking tour of the house; starting at the front door, touring through the sitting room parlor, and making our way upstairs. Every room is beautifully decorated for the time period, with great attention to detail. Along with period-specific furnishings, the house is decorated with some original pieces that belonged to the Nelles family, as well as original art from the period. It felt like we were stepping back in time. 

The guides are incredibly versed in the history of the house, the Grimsby area, and the Nelles family. They had no trouble answering our many questions. We had explained that we were in the area to visit the cemeteries and graveyards, and they kindly pointed out artifacts and related tidbits as they took us along the tour. At the end of our tour, they asked if we would also be interested to hear some of the haunted history of the house. We of course said yes! 

They shared stories of experiencing odd smells when there shouldn’t have been any, such as smelling a delicious roast or floral perfume, which was a favorite of Mrs. Nelles. They also shared some stories from paranormal investigations that have taken place in the manor. Paranormal teams have reported their fresh equipment batteries dying quickly and suddenly. They have also captured some eerie electronic voice phenomena (EVP). The staff now use some of these EVPs during their Halloween events, wherein they tell the haunted stories of the house. I would love to attend one someday. As we were discussing the spooky happenings, my friend happened to check her Apple Watch and noticed the battery was dead. Were the Nelles spirits letting us know they were with us?

We thanked our tour guides for an amazing tour and made our way outside. They had one last interesting piece of history to point out as we were leaving. In the garden, leaning up against the house are two small gravestones, that are still very legible. Kate explained that these stones were originally at a graveyard close to the water’s edge, which has since eroded away. A cenotaph was erected at Saint Andrew’s Churchyard in memory of the souls that were washed away, and the original gravestones were moved; some ended up at the manor and used as flagstones for the walking paths. These two were preserved and now sit in the garden. You never know where you might find a gravestone.

Gravestones in the garden of the Nelles Manor Museum, Grimsby ON ©2023

There was so much we explored and experienced that day. As well as exploring the Nelles Manor Museum, we visited two graveyards, one cemetery, and one burial ground. We also stopped in at the Grimsby Museum and quickly visited the Grimsby Gingerbread houses. I’m sure I will write some more in the future about those visits. It was a very long day, but it was worth it.

If you ever get the chance to visit Grimsby, I highly recommend the Nelles Manor Museum. It’s a beautiful place to learn more about the history of the Niagara region and the War of 1812, and you might also have a paranormal experience. Don’t forget to also pay your respects to the Nelles family at Saint Andrews’s Churchyard.

Thanks for reading!


References: 

  1. History | Nelles Manor Museum
  2. Ledger, Box and Table-type Grave Markers | A Grave Interest
  3. Table Stone Gravestones | Cape Cod Gravestones