Stone Stories: The Abandoned Highway Bookshop

When I was a child, my family often made trips to Quebec to visit extended family. My father loved to use the shortcut through Field, as it cut about 30 miles off our five-hour drive to Val d’Or. We always stopped for a meal at the McDonald’s beside Ms. Claybelt, the 12-foot-tall Holstein cow. 

On the way back from our family visits we would add another stop to our route, which also became a road trip tradition. That was stopping at a small unassuming Book Shop that sits beside Highway 11. 

I have many fond memories of this little highway book shop, that today sits abandoned. Just like the many books that have sat on the now neglected shelves, the Book Shop has its own interesting story to tell.

The Highway Book shop

When Douglas Pollard opened his small print shop, called Pollard Press in 1957, I don’t think he ever imagined how big it would become. What started as a small commercial print shop in his garage, printing general office stationary eventually turned into a Northern cultural landmark.1

The story goes that one of Pollard’s customers asked to barter used books instead of cash to pay his bills. From then on the demand for books became greater and the shop expanded many times over the years to accommodate the growing collection of books.1 

Being originally a print shop, it was a natural move for Pollard to start printing and publishing books in the 1970s2. 467 original titles were published through the Highway Book Shop, focusing on local history and Canadian literature.1

What started as a 20’ x 25’ wooden building eventually expanded into a 10,000 square footprint, consisting of building add-ons and even three highway trailers that were used to store nothing but books.2 No wonder so many people made it a mandatory stop in their travels, sometimes just to experience the sheer size of its collection. 

I remember as a young girl getting lost among the stacks of books. It was so mind-blowing to me that the staff could find anything in that sea of books. However, the inventory was well maintained and kept very up-to-date. The Book Shop even maintained a list for those looking for specific titles. You could add your name to the list with your desired title and eventually, you might get a call that your book was found. Naturally, this could take some time, even years!2 

Pollard, and his first wife Jean Ririe Hope, spent a lot of time at book fairs and conventions, always on the hunt for good books to add to their shop. Pollard even purchased lots of discarded Library books, that were sometimes hit-or-miss for quality. 

After Pollard’s first wife passed away, he eventually remarried and brought his second wife into the fold of the Highway Book Shop. Mary Lois Williams was a Librarian with a Master of Library Science from the University of Toronto. She left the Librarian life trading it to work in the Book Shop when she married Pollard in 1986.3  

After Pollard died in 2009, Lois worked to keep the Book Shop running. It was a valiant effort, but she ultimately decided to close the shop in 2011. At 87 years old, her heart was just not in the same way anymore.1 

Visiting Cobalt

I visited Cobalt in October of 2022 with my mother. We wanted to take advantage of the fall colors and visit some local historical sites. We also wanted to visit Douglas and Lois Pollard in the cemetery, to pay our respects.

We spent most of our time in Cobalt visiting the Heritage Silver Trail, a self-guided trail system that takes you to 14 locations throughout the small town, that highlights the history of the silver mining rush. Unfortunately, when we visited, a lot of places were closed. This was also the case of the bookstore we had hoped to visit, White Mountain Publications.

White Mountain Publications was high on our list to visit as it houses some books that were rescued from the Highway Book Shop after it closed. I was hoping to speak to someone about how many books were rescued and if there were plans to rescue more. White Mountain also published a book that I was hoping to purchase on this trip, called Highway Book Shop: Northern Ontario’s Unexpected Treasure written by Lois Pollard. I ended up purchasing the book through White Mountain’s website instead. 

Of course, there were many cemetery stops planned for this trip, but the one we wanted to visit most was the Cobalt Veterans Cemetery. This cemetery is located in Haileybury, a small town adjacent to Cobalt. The cemetery sits beside two other cemeteries; directly beside Mount Pleasant Cemetery, and across the road from the Haileybury Catholic Cemetery. 

The Cobalt Veterans Cemetery is the smallest of the three, although Find a Grave lists 332 memorials. I would not have thought there were that many laid to rest there based on the cemetery’s small size. It did make finding the Pollards less of a challenge. 

Douglas Pollard passed away on November 25, 2009, at the age of 84. His obituary states that he passed away suddenly at Temiskaming Hospital4, but in her book Highway Book Shop, Lois briefly touches on that fateful night. Like any other normal day, after closing time Pollard went upstairs to retire for the night, as they lived in a small apartment above the book shop. When she followed him upstairs, only ten minutes later, she found that he had “quietly passed away”. Doctors confirmed that he had died of cardiac arrest.2 

Douglas is laid to rest beside his second wife, Lois Pollard who passed away on January 3, 2020, at the age of 98. Their gravestone reads: “Pollard / Douglas C. Pollard. C.M. / March 18, 1925 — Nov. 25, 2009 / Beloved Husband of / Mary Lois Williams / July 21, 1922 — Jan. 3, 2020”

Douglas’s first wife, Jean Pollard is laid to rest in Valleyview Cemetery in New Liskeard. Jean passed away in October of 1979, unexpectedly on the operating table during a planned second open-heart surgery.2

The Book Shop Today

The Book Shop closed its doors forever on May 29, 2011. In 2012 it was purchased by new owners, but the Book Shop never re-opened.5 Rumour has it that the inventory of approximately one million books1 was left behind on the shelves. As noted above, White Mountain Publishers did rescue some of the books, but is it true that the large majority were left behind? 

When we visited the Highway Book Shop on our way back home from visiting Cobalt, we took some time to walk around the building outside. The large sign that stands by the road that once welcomed visitors is slowly deteriorating. The building facade has peeled and faded over the years, and the grass is now growing wild. 

We were hoping to catch a glimpse of the stacks of books inside, instead, we got a whiff of the strong musty smell of old books. Depending on where you stand outside the front of the building, you can catch that unmistakable smell. I can just imagine what it must smell like inside the building.

While touring the grounds we chatted about our memories of visiting the Book Shop. My mother remembers speaking with Lois on our many visits over the years. We also talked about the books—about all the books that were left behind, and wondering about what types of books we could find given the chance. Both of us are not brave enough to cross into urban exploration territory, but luckily we are not the only curious ones.

The good people over at Freaktography have ventured inside to document what the Book Shop looks like today and prove once and for all that the rumor is true, they did leave the books behind. You can watch their video Exploring a HUGE Abandoned Book Store over on their YouTube channel. 

Their video and photos show a time capsule, and books in rows upon rows of bookshelves for as far as the eye can see. It looks just like I remember. I am not the only one who has tried to imagine what an abandoned building full of molding and rotting books might smell like. The folks at Freaktography have been asked the question before:

“I have been asked by people, “What did it smell like in there?”, it smells exactly like you would think it does – like old books. It has warm, thick air and the rows upon rows of books give a muffled sensation when talking, there is no echo and it is eerily silent.”6

I can only imagine how surreal it would be to walk through those stacks again. Watching the walk-through video does make me a bit sad though. So many books left behind. I wonder what unique and rare finds there might be, what treasure could be found. I mean a lot of those books might be dated and useless now, such as the maps and tech manuals. But just imagine what old and out-of-print finds there might be buried in there as well. 

Maybe one day someone will be given the go-ahead to slowly pour through those lost tomes, and bring some of them back into the light. I know I would love to, given the chance. 

It was really interesting looking into the backstory of this abandoned landmark, and a piece of my childhood. Learning about the lives and passions of the people who brought the Book Shop to life highlights the fact that there are so many interesting stories out there. 

Thanks for reading!


References:

  1. A Short History | Highway Books
  2. Highway Book Shop: Northern Ontario’s Unexpected Treasure by Lois Pollard | Book
  3. Mary Lois Williams Pollard | Find a Grave
  4. Dr. Douglas Charles Neil Pollard | Find a Grave
  5. Home | Highway Books
  6. Exploring a HUGE Abandoned Book Store | Freaktography Youtube Channel

Stone Stories: Canada’s First Black Mayor

Last October, My mother and I took a little road trip to Mattawa. We planned on doing some hiking, visiting cemeteries, and enjoying the fall colors. We always like to visit local museums when we visit new places, and the Mattawa Museum did not disappoint. We had a great time touring the grounds and learned a lot about the history of the city, including that it has the distinction of having Canada’s first elected Black mayor. 

Mattawa, located in northeastern Ontario is a little over two hours drive from me. Mattawa is located where the Mattawa and Ottawa Rivers merge, in Nipissing District. The name Mattawa means “Meeting of the Waters” in Ojibwa.1 It is the oldest settlement in the Nipissing District, and today showcases that historic past with beautiful wooden sculptures. Many wooden sculptures of historic figures, important to Mattawa’s history, can be found scattered throughout the town.1

It was an overcast day when we visited Mattawa, but it didn’t deter us from exploring. We admired the two wooden sculptures on the museum grounds and looked for the three white crosses, that stand high on Québec Hill across the Mattawa river. The three crosses were erected in 1686 by missionary priests to mark the place where the two rivers meet.2

Inside the museum, we found a treasure trove of artifacts; paintings by a well-known Mattawa painter, many indigenous artifacts, and a large exhibit about Canada’s first Black Mayor, Dr. S. F. Monestime. The exhibit features large panels with many photos and a history of what brought Monestime to Mattawa, and how he changed the community for the better. The exhibit also includes some of his personal items, like his signature fedora and a medical skull used in his practice. My Mother and I were both interested in this exhibit the most, and were surprised that we had never heard of him before. We made it a point to pay our respects at the cemetery.

Dr. Saint Firmin Monestime

Saint Firmin Monestime was born in Cape Haitian, Haiti in December of 1909. Monestime grew up during the United States occupation of Haiti, which took place from 1916 to 1935. He graduated with a medical degree from the University of Haiti Medical School, and after graduation was named Medical Officer for the International Route between Haiti and the Dominican Republic.3 He experienced a lot during his medical career in Haiti, living through mass casualty events. He received the Knight of the National Order of Honor and Merit, awarded to those of distinguished excellence. He wrote four books around this time, about rural medicine.3

After becoming frustrated with the politics and what he called “deplorable conditions”, Monestime quietly left Haiti for Quebec. He was part of the first small group of Haitian professionals to come to Quebec in the 1940s. Unfortunately, this meant starting over as he had to train and intern for several years to get his full Canadian medical accreditation.3

Monestime found his way to Mattawa almost by chance. He and another colleague were traveling through Mattawa on their way to Timmins to see about setting up a medical practice. They stopped in for lunch at Chez Francois in Mattawa, and it just so happened that the restaurant owner recognized Dr. Monestime, as he had been operated on by the Doctor in Ottawa. The timing was right. The long-standing doctor in Mattawa had recently passed away and the town needed a new doctor. The restaurant also had a vacant room to rent and office space. Monestime agreed to stay, temporarily, but ended up staying indefinitely.3

Monestime found the community to be very welcoming and their generosity encouraged him to stay. His medical practice was booming with a busy office as well as on-call work with the hospital. That’s not to say that he didn’t experience racism in his time there.3 In 1972, he was asked by a reporter if race ever came into play, Monestime replied:

“My practice was booming in no time and from then until now I’ve had no serious problems. You might find a very few—and not the most intelligent—who may say they won’t come to see me because of my race. But very few.”3

Three months after Dr. Martin Luther King gave his “I Have a Dream” speech in 1963, Dr. St. F. Monestime also made history by being elected the first Black mayor in Canada. An active political figure in good standing within the community, regarded for his sense of justice and equality, he was elected mayor nine times.3 Today, the legacy of Dr. Monestime continues and is still felt vibrantly within the community as his family continues to do good works. The most notable of these works is the Algonquin Nursing Home, a project championed by Monestime in his last years.

On October 27, 1977, Dr. Monestime passed away at the age of 67, most likely from pancreatic cancer, which he battled multiple times throughout his life. His Russian Orthodox funeral service took place at St. Anne’s Roman Catholic Church in Mattawa.3 He is buried in the Petschersky Monestime family plot at Pine Hill Union cemetery.

He is laid to rest beside his son Fedeor, who sadly was accidentally shot and killed a year earlier on February 29, during an altercation outside of Chez Francois.3 Monestimes’ wife, Zena, and her mother are also laid to rest in the family plot, which features a large Eastern Cross. The Eastern Cross or Orthodox Cross has a tilted bar at the base of the cross; a tilted footrest. This is meant to illustrate that the thief crucified on the left side of Christ, thought to be the wise thief, went up to heaven, while the thief crucified on the right side was thought to be unrepentant, and went down to hell.4

My visit to Mattawa was an eye-opening trip. After exploring the exhibit at the museum, we stopped at the gift shop and spoke with the museum curator after buying a few things. We had a great conversation about the museum contents and how sometimes history is hidden in plain sight. 

If you’re interested in learning more about Dr. Monestime, I highly recommend a visit to the Mattawa Museum and also picking up a copy of Where Rivers Meet by Doug Mackey. It’s a well-researched look at the life of Dr. Monestime and also explores life in Haiti as well as Black history in Canada. 

Thanks for reading!


References:

  1. What About Mattawa? | Town of Mattwa
  2. The Three Crosses | Mattawa Museum
  3. Where rivers Meet: The Story of Dr. S. F. Monestime, Canada’s First Black Mayor by Doug Mackey | Book
  4. Understanding Cemetery Symbols: A Field Guide for Historic Graveyards by Tui Snider | Book

Stone Stories: Canada’s World War I Flying Ace

Have you ever flown out of the Billy Bishop airport, in Toronto? Were you curious as to who the airport was named after? I was, but I never got around to looking into it, not until I stumbled upon the grave of William Avery “Billy” Bishop.

In the Summer of 2023, My mother and I stumbled across the Bishop family plot, while visiting Greenwood Cemetery in Owen Sound. We had come to Owen Sound to search for the second grave of Tom Thomson, but the trip ended up being just as much about Bishop.

Billy Bishop

William Avery “Billy” Bishop was born in 1894, in Owen Sound, Ontario. During his stint as a cadet at the Royal Military College in Kingston, World War I broke out. He enrolled in the 9th Mississauga Horse, Canadian Expedition Force and later transferred to the Royal Flying Corps.1 He received his pilot’s certificate in 1917, although some considered him a mediocre pilot, he was an expert shot with great shooting skill and extraordinary eyesight.2

Bishop became the first Canadian Airman to be awarded the Victoria Cross, the highest award for acts of bravery in wartime. Bishop was awarded the cross for his solo early morning attack on an enemy airfield in June, 1917.1 He single-handedly attacked a German aerodrome, destroying seven airplanes on the ground and shooting an additional four airplanes down, before running out of ammunition.2 Billy Bishop was the British Empire’s second-highest-scoring flying ace, with 72 official victories.1

Greenwood Cemetery

When we visited Greenwood Cemetery, we didn’t have any specific graves we wanted to see. I visited the cemetery office when we first arrived, as I had read online that they offered a self-guided walking tour. They were very friendly in the office and gave me a brochure with the walking tour details. There are a couple of different tours to choose from, that take you to different areas in the cemetery. 

Greenwood is quite large, covering approximately 40 acres of land in the southwestern part of the city. It also has a long history, having opened to the public in 1854. It’s a traditional cemetery, with both upright and flat markers, a large mausoleum, memorial gardens, and a potter’s field memorial.3 

We unexpectedly came upon the Bishop family plot after getting out of the car. I had parked in the heart of the cemetery. A small Canadian flag marked the grave, the flag blowing in the wind had caught our eye. There is a large upright stone that lists the family members buried there, with names on both sides of the stone. There are smaller flat markers laid in the earth surrounding it, marking where each family member is laid to rest. There is also a Canadian military marker for Bishop that stands apart from the rest. The upright grey granite marker lists his military designations alongside the emblem for the Royal Canadian Air Force and the Victoria Cross.

Bishop passed away at the age of 62, on September 11, 1956, in Palm Beach, Florida. His funeral service was held at the Timothy Eaton Memorial Church in Toronto, the same church that he was married in. 25,000 people lined up outside the church to pay their respects. He was cremated, and his ashes were buried in the family plot, in Greenwood.4 He is laid to rest with his family; including both his parents, his sister Mary, and his brothers Hiram, and Reginald Bishop.

Bishop’s wife Margaret remarried after his death, and is buried with her second husband in Beachwood Cemetery in Ottawa. She passed away in 1981 at the age of 83.5 

The Billy Bishop House

The next morning, we decided at breakfast to visit one more thing before we left Owen Sound. My mother loves history, so I figured she would enjoy touring a historic home, The Billy Bishop House. She loved the suggestion, it seemed only appropriate to stop since we had already paid our respects at his grave. 

The house, built in 1884, is the childhood home of Bishop and has been preserved as a historic site and museum. The first floor has been decorated with period-appropriate antiques and items owned by the Bishops. It looks very similar to what it would have looked like when Bishop was growing up. There is a timeline in the parlor that details all the major milestones in Bishop’s life. I found this floor to be the most interesting. There is a lot of information to take in, but also lots to look at; like Bishop’s uniform, personal items, and a copy of Winged Warfare, a book Bishop wrote in 1918 that details his experiences in the air.2

The second floor looks more modern and houses changing exhibits. When we visited there was an exhibit of interviews with veterans from the war in Afghanistan. In what would have been Bishop’s boyhood room, there is a wooden framed airplane for children to explore, and the room is decorated with film posters and other memorabilia.

The staff are incredibly knowledgeable and friendly. I had a nice chat with them about Bishop, as well as the haunted history of the house. I can’t help but ask when I visit a historic location! They were not phased by my line of questioning at all, and I’m sure it’s something they get asked often. The museum runs a ghost walk in the summer months.

Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to attend one of the walks, but I did get to hear some of the stories. The house is reportedly haunted by two spirits, an older woman and a young child. The spirit of the young child is thought to be Hiram Kilbourn Bishop, who died of diphtheria at the age of 4 years old, in 1892.6 People say they have seen a small child wandering the house, wearing what looks like a dress. Young children, regardless of gender, often wore dresses during that time period, which leads the staff to think it is the spirit of young Hiram. 

We didn’t experience anything paranormal on our visit, but we did enjoy exploring the house and learning more about life in that era, Bishop’s personal life, and his legacy.

My mother and I both love history and getting to explore Bishop’s childhood home was a great way to end our Owen Sound adventure. We traveled to Owen Sound to learn more about art, but we ended up also learning more about our Canadian Military history. That’s one of the reasons why I love road trips, you can plan as much as you want but it’s often the spontaneous finds that end up being the most interesting. What do you think?

Thanks for reading!


References:

  1. Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport | Government of Canada
  2. William Avery “Billy” Bishop | Find a Grave 
  3. Greenwood Cemetery | Owensound.ca
  4. Billy Bishop, VC by W.D. Mathieson | Goodreads
  5. Margaret Eaton Burden Hughson | Find a Grave
  6. Hiram Kilbourn Bishop (1887 – 1892) | WikiTree

Stone Stories: The U.F.O. Gravestone

In early July, my friends and I went on a cemetery road trip, up through Hailybury and New Liskeard to Kirkland Lake. We made quite a few stops along the way, not only at cemeteries. We stopped at a couple of roadside attractions to stretch our legs and take in the sights. 

We did have a few points of interest that we were determined to visit that day. One was the grave of Charles Bélanger, son of famous Canadian sculptor Rose-Aimée Bélanger. You may remember that story, as I wrote about our visit in a blog post called Stone Stories: Art in a Cemetery. 

The other point of interest, high on our list to see was a gravestone with an epitaph about U.F.O.s.

One of my favorite things about visiting cemeteries is finding unique gravestones. I love gravestones that stand out, that showcase a sense of humor, or something specific about their life story. I love stones that give you a glimpse of who the person was. Sometimes these peculiar gravestones also present a mystery! 

Like this gravestone in Kirkland Lake Cemetery that reads “U.F.O. Are Real Spacecraft.”

This is the gravestone of Glenn Bradley, who passed away on December 27, 2007. A day before what would have been his 89th birthday. From far away, his gravestone doesn’t seem to stand out. It’s a classic style headstone, in grey granite. But upon closer inspection, the epitaph jumps out at you.

It reads: “Bradley / Glenn E. Bradley / Dec. 28, 1918 — Dec. 27, 2007 / Loving Father of / Linda Sue and Terri Lynn / Beloved Grandfather of / Michelle, Curtis, Anthony, Pamela / U.F.O. Are Real Spacecraft.”

The epitaph continues on the backside of the stone: “Spinning Objects Vanquish Gravity / Spinning Objects Levitate / Spin to Exceed the Earths / Relative Feet Per Second / Honorable 60th C.B. Service / 1942 U.S. Navy 1945”

What does it mean? 

I am not the only one fascinated with this gravestone. Bill Steer, also known as Back Roads Bill, wrote an interesting article about this peculiar stone. In it, he shares an interesting tidbit found in Bradley’s obituary. It reads: “He will be remembered for his scientific work such as antigravity and his belief in UFOs.”1

Bradley’s gravestone tells us that he was a veteran of World War II with the U.S. Navy, having served from 1942 to 1945. Is that where he worked on antigravity? Had he seen a U.F.O.?

Recently, NASA revealed a report on UFO sightings, confirming that they are actively monitoring and collecting evidence. In the report, they state that unidentified anomalous phenomena (UAP) are not definitively connected to alien life, but what they are remains uncertain.2 You can read the 33-page report here.

It was on a particularly hot day, that we chose to visit the cemetery. It was the final cemetery on our list, having stopped at many cemeteries along the way. This meant that we were fairly tired when we arrived at the Kirkland Lake Cemetery, also known as Swastika Cemetery. 

Kirkland Lake Cemetery is actually located in Swastika, Ontario, a former mining and railroad town. It sits within the Kirkland Lake municipal boundaries.3 Swastika was originally a railway station along the Temiskaming and Northern Ontario Railway in the early 1900s. The town grew into a small mining community in 1907. It became known for its abundance of gold, which led the company, and officially the town itself, to name themselves after the Sanskrit symbol for “good luck” in 1908.4 

I don’t think we were prepared for how large this cemetery is! I was a little disheartened when we arrived, thinking we may not be able to find the fabled UFO stone. Find a Grave lists 7,871 memorials for this cemetery, and it’s marked as only 83% photographed. It’s quite large! 

After a brief distraction of falling into my regular photographer’s routine of stopping at gravestones that caught my eye, I remembered our objective. I regrouped with my companions and checked out Google one more time to point us in the right direction. In the end, we used some online photos to help us triangulate the stone’s location by matching up unique stones and markers in the background of the photos.

BINGO!

As mentioned previously, the stone from a distance is fairly nondescript. At the top of the gravestone, there is a coin embedded into it, with the dates 1937 — 1970. The coin reads: “E.W. Bliss Company / Bliss since 1857 / From Ingot to Finished Product”. According to the Military Wiki page, E.W. Bliss was an American company based in Brooklyn, New York. Among other things, they produced a line of special sheet metal work presses, power stamping machines, car parts, torpedoes, shrapnel, and armor-piercing projectiles.5

We spent time circling Bradley’s gravestone, pondering his curious epitaph. Without more background information, and as a layperson it did make me scratch my head in curiosity.

Maybe one day, answers will come forth as to what Bradley was talking about with his cryptically scientific epitaph. For now, it makes for a curious extraterrestrial mystery!

Have you ever seen a U.F.O. mentioned on a gravestone before? What do you think? Do you want to believe?

Thanks for reading!


References:

  1. A most unusual epitaph | Bay Today
  2. NASA reveals results of highly anticipated report into UFO sightings | CTV News
  3. Kirkland Lake Cemetery | Find a Grave
  4. Swastika, Ontario | Town of Swastika
  5. E. W. Bliss Company | Military Wiki

Stone Stories: Chasing Tom Thomson Part II

If you’re a long-time reader of my blog, you may remember a post I wrote last year about searching for the first grave of Tom Thomson. 

Yes, this famous Canadian painter has two final resting places. Although there is speculation on where he actually rests in peace. Last August, my mother and I went on a camping trip in Algonquin Park, to find the spot of his first burial. This August, we wanted to pay our respects at his second, and supposedly final resting place.

Tom Thomson is one of Canada’s most notable painters and a forefather of the Group of Seven. To this day, his death remains a mystery. He was last seen alive on July 8, 1917. He was setting out on a solo trip on Canoe Lake in his signature dove-grey canoe. Eight days later, on July 16th, his body was found floating in the lake. The story goes that he was hastily buried in Mowat Cemetery, on Canoe Lake. When his family found out, they had his remains exhumed and brought to Leith, Ontario to be buried in the Leith United Churchyard.1 Many questions remain; What happened to Thomson? Was his body really moved? This is where the details get muddy, and almost immediately rumors swirled about how Thomson died, and where his resting place truly lies. Over the years there have been many attempts to find out the truth, but nothing conclusive has been determined. Maybe we will never know… 

Since my mother and I had made the trip to visit Canoe Lake last year, we thought it only fitting to make a trip to Owen Sound this summer to pay our respects at Thomson’s second gravesite. Visiting Owen Sound and Leith also gave us the chance to see Thomson’s artwork in person. Our first stop when we arrived in Owen Sound, was to visit the Tom Thomson Art Gallery, lovingly referred to as The TOM.

The TOM, of course, is named after the iconic Canadian landscape artist. It has a nationally significant collection of contemporary and historical art, including artifacts and important works by Tom Thomson and the Group of Seven.2 

My mother and I were both excited to see Thomson’s original paintings, having only seen prints at the art centre in Algonquin Park the summer before. The small collection of his works on display at the time we visited was beautiful. It’s easy to see why he was sometimes called the Canadian Van Gogh. The thing that struck me right away was how small these canvases’ were, small enough to be packed up into a canoe. It was easy to imagine Thomson sitting on the shores of Canoe Lake, bringing these small canvases’ to life. 

Along with seeing Thomson’s beautiful work, we also had the chance to see life as Thomson saw it, through photographs he had taken himself. The exhibit Tom Thomson: Field of Vision presents 40 photographs that were taken by Thomson. His niece Jessie Fisk, discovered a small bundle of photo negatives that were captured by the artist, supposedly taken during the last seven years of his life. This collection of photographs presents an intimate look into Thomson’s life, and experiences, through his own lens.3

It was an interesting experience to look at these photos and to see through Thomson’s eyes, in a way. The photo that stood out to me the most was of a gravestone. It’s the gravestone of James Watson, thought to be the first person buried at Mowat Cemetery. That means that Thomson had visited his future resting place while he was alive. I wonder if he ever thought that he would one day be buried there? It’s interesting to note how legible the stone was at that time. Today, the stone is barely legible, with just a faint indication that it was ever inscribed. 

While visiting the gallery, we had an interesting encounter with another fan of Thomson’s work, a woman visiting all the way from California. She was very interested in Thomson’s life and death and was on a special birthday trip to visit historic Thomson locations. The week before, she had gone with a guide to visit Mowat Cemetery, by canoe. During our conversations, the question of where we thought his final resting place was came up. She seemed relieved when I said I agreed with her and believed he still rests in Mowat Cemetery.

Yes, I think there is strong evidence that he still lies in Mowat. Funny enough, before really knowing Thomson’s full story, when my mother and I left Mowat Cemetery last year, she said that she felt like he was still there. Regardless of our feelings, we still wanted to visit his second grave in Leith, Ontario. 

Leith is a small hamlet, about 13 minutes from Owen Sound. In this beautiful part of Grey County, you can find gorgeous views of Georgian Bay, the Coffin Ridge Boutique Winery, and the historic Leith United Church and graveyard. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to stop into Coffin Ridge, but there is always next time. 

Leith United Church, located on Tom Thomson Lane, was built in 1865, and is considered “one of the finest examples of pre-Confederation architecture in Ontario’s Sydenham Township”.4 The church was closed in 1969, but since 1992, the Friends of Leith Church continue to preserve and restore the building by holding fundraisers and special events, like concerts.4

We had a beautiful day for a graveyard stroll, the day we visited the churchyard. It wasn’t hard to find the Thomson family plot at all. There are historical plaques and signs to direct you right to it. The graveyard itself is a decent size, but not big enough to get lost in. We could see right away that Thomson was still very popular as there were many grave goods left at his graveside, including a cup filled with paintbrushes, and a lovely rock painting of Thomson. The base of his gravestone is filled with stones, coins, and other items left by those who have come to pay their respects. 

According to the gravestone, Thomson’s third youngest brother, James Brodie Thomson, who sadly passed away very young, in 1883 also lies here. Along with his maternal grandfather Kenneth Mathison, a member of the Free Masons who passed away in 1879 at the age of 72. Thomson’s oldest brother George Thomson also is laid to rest in the Leith United Church graveyard, with his wife. 

I was curious as to where Thomson’s parents are buried. After some searching on Find A Grave, I found that they are both laid to rest in Greenwood Cemetery in Owen Sound. I did visit Greenwood Cemetery on this trip, but didn’t know to search for them. Thomson’s father, John Thomson, is buried with his first wife, Margaret Mathison, and his sister-in-law turned second wife Henrietta Mathison. 

I love wandering cemeteries and graveyards, but being able to connect a life and legacy to a name makes it even more rewarding. Viewing original artwork, and photographs that Thomson created, built a connection that deepened the experience of visiting his gravesite and paying our respects. And making these connections all started in a cemetery! I loved learning new aspects of Canadian history and how this trip brought us to places we had never visited before. Owen Sound is a beautiful little city and I look forward to having the chance to visit again. I had so much fun on this trip and look forward to where cemeteries will bring me next.

Thanks for reading! 


References:

  1. Death on a painted lake: The Tom Thomson tragedy | Canadian Mysteries.ca
  2. About Tom Thomson Art Gallery | City of Owen Sound
  3. Tom Thomson: Field of Vision | City of Owen Sound
  4. Leith Church | Grey County

Stone Stories: Art in a Cemetery

When people ask me why I love cemeteries so much, I often say it’s because they are great places to learn about art and history. Today on the blog I wanted to share a recent cemetery visit that is a perfect example of this.

On the Canada Day long weekend, some friends and I took advantage of the nice weather to explore some areas in the Temisikaming District. We toured around Temagami, and up to Kirkland Lake. We visited 18 cemeteries that day, (New Record!) and found some really interesting things along the way. A day or two before we left for our cemetery road trip, one of my friends learned about an interesting gravestone in a cemetery in Earlton. 

We made it a priority to find it. 

In one of my friend’s work offices, they have a bronze sculpture created by a famous Canadian sculptor. When describing the artist’s work, it was mentioned that one of her sculptures sits atop a gravestone, in Earlton, Ontario. I’ve always thought of cemeteries as open-air art galleries, and this gravestone proves that point. 

That famous French Canadian sculptor is Rose-Aimée Bélanger. She was born in 1923 in Guérin Quebec,1 but lived most of her life in the small township of Armstrong, near New Liskeard.2 In 1945, she began her studies at l’École des Beaux-Arts de Montréal but paused her studies to marry and raise nine children. It wasn’t until thirty years later, that she would return to her love of sculpture.1

Her work, in clay and bronze, mainly depicts women frozen in everyday moments. Her work is informed by her own life experiences, and inspired by her community.1 Arguably her most famous, and most photographed work is Les Chuchoteuses (The Gossipers), which can be found in Montreal, Quebec.3 

Another of her bronze sculptures can be found on top of the grave of her son Charles Bélanger, in St. Jean Baptiste Cemetery. Charles rests beside his father, Laurent Bélanger, and the future resting place of his mother. One of nine children, Charles passed away of pneumonia in 1951 in Timmins, Ontario. 

Shortly after we visited Charles’s resting place, my friend had the chance to meet Pierre Bélanger, Charles’ brother. He shared that young Charles was eventually moved to the Bélanger family plot in Earlton from Timmins when his mother, Rose, felt she was ready.

The final resting place of the Bélangers can be found in St. Jean Baptiste Cemetery, in the small town of Earlton Ontario. The cemetery is a fairly small one, although Find a Grave does list 797 memorials for this cemetery.4 I had some trouble trying to locate this cemetery on a map, but after reaching out to a fellow taphophile on Find a Grave, I had the address and coordinates and we were able to find the cemetery easily.

The epitaph, written in French, reads: “In loving memory of / Charles / son of / Laurent and / Rose-Aimée Bélanger / died February 17, 1951 / at the age of 1 year 8 months.”

It didn’t take us long to find this beautiful sculpture, as it does stand out a little bit among the gravestones. Possibly bronze in color at one time, the sculpture now has a dark patina. The sculpture depicts a small cherub of a child sitting on top of a granite square. He holds out his hand where a small bird has perched. He looks down wistfully at the little bird in his small hand. He is dressed in what might be a little linen jumper and has two small angel wings protruding from his back.

You can tell right away, this sweet tribute was made with love. From the angel wings to the soft look of the face, the attention to detail is impressive. I love the little dimples on the hand. It is a poignant symbol of a mother’s love, expressed in the most natural medium for her. It must have been a cathartic experience creating this piece.

Sculpture by Rose-Aimée Bélanger, that sits on top of the grave of her son Charles Bélanger. Photos: St. Jean Baptiste Cemetery, Earlton ON ©2023

My friends and I paid our respects to Charles and Laurent, lingering to admire Roses’ beautiful work. We were very happy that we were able to visit. I have always said that cemeteries are the perfect place to go for a walk, enjoy nature and look at beautiful art. And in this case, explore some Canadian art history. 

Rose-Aimée Bélanger celebrated her 100th birthday this year, on July 4th. In celebration, she also unveiled a new sculpture. Titled Appeasement, her new work can be found at the Canada House Gallery in Banff, Alberta.3 She has many art pieces in collections all over the world1, but you can see some of her beautiful artwork while paying your respects at the cemetery.

Thanks for reading!


References:

  1. Artist Resume | Galerie Blanche
  2. 99 year old bronze sculptor celebrates new book | Bay Today
  3. Pour ses 100 ans, Rose-Aimée Bélanger dévoile une nouvelle œuvre | Radio-Canada
  4. St. Jean Baptiste Cemetery | Find a Grave

Stone Stories: The Screaming Heads

Writing these weekly blog posts, I often feel like a travel writer. Cemetery tourism is one of my favorite things! For this week’s blog post I wanted to share another cemetery road trip destination—The Screaming Heads.

At the beginning of June, I went on another Birthday weekend road trip. This trip was a mix of cemetery visits, museums, and attractions. We visited 15 cemeteries, played a game of Cemetery Bingo, and visited the Wiseman’s Corner Schoolhouse Heritage Centre, which happened to have a gravestone on its grounds. 

The main attraction of this trip, and the whole reason we visited Burk’s Falls, was to finally visit and experience The Screaming Heads, in Midlothian. We had talked about visiting for about the last 2 years but never managed to make our way there. So this year we made a special birthday trip to visit this unique resting place. You never know where you might find a cemetery.

The Screaming Heads is an ever-growing art installation created by Peter Camani, a Canadian artist, sculptor, and retired art teacher. This public open-air art gallery dots the landscape of his 310-acre property.1 Living among his artwork, Peter lives in the Midlothian Castle, which was built upon a 19th-century derelict farmhouse. 

There is a giant spider web gate made of stone and rebar that surrounds the castle. If the gate is open, you may get a chance to look inside and visit the artist’s studio and living space. Everywhere you look there are interesting details to admire, from the metallic dragon that breathes smoke when the fireplace is lit, to a giant head that houses a studio space within it, to the rows of smaller screaming heads that line the top wall of the gate. 

Located on Midlothian Road, near the small town of Burks’s Falls, The Screaming Heads is an off-the-beaten-path roadside attraction. You know you are getting close if you start spotting smaller screaming heads; like at the Burk’s Falls visitor center and the Wiseman’s Corner Schoolhouse Heritage Centre. Peter opens his property to tourists year-round, from dawn till dusk. You’ll find much more at this attraction than just amazing artwork. The property is also home to about 300 species of birds, including peacocks. Their eerie calls can be heard all around you as you hike through the open fields and bush. There is a small gift shop that has some neat Screaming Heads merch, and on weekends you might also find a small farmers market.

The main attraction is of course The Screaming Heads. The artist has described these 20-foot-tall concrete sculptures as a warning against environmental degradation, “the earth rebelling against what we’re doing to the land.”2 Peter has transformed this once barren farmland, by planting many of the trees on his property and propagating spring-fed ponds. His large concrete structures are arranged in such a way that they form the shape of a dragon when viewed from the air, although today the trees are so large they obscure some of the statues.2

Along with being a unique roadside attraction, The Screaming Heads can also be considered a cemetery. A small grouping of Screaming Heads stand out among the other round Edvard Munch-like sculptures. These tall narrow creations have cremated remains mixed into the concrete. On his website, which now seems to be defunct, the artist had a creative suggestion for where your final resting place could be when you pass away; “Why settle for a small underground plot in the suburbs, when you have the option of joining a vibrant creation that fills the landscape?”3 At one time, If you wanted to be memorialized in this open-air art gallery, you would need $10,000 to reserve your spot.3 Since the website is now gone, I am uncertain if this option still exists.

At the time of our visit, there were 4 human ash sculptures, with memorial plaques for 5 people.

“Gone but not forgotten” Memorial sculptures created with cremated remains. Artist: Peter Camani. Midlothian ON ©2023

Everyone’s experience with the Screaming Heads will be different, as there is no set way to explore the grounds. There is no trail map, and there are a few trailheads to choose from. When we visited, on an exceptionally warm day, we managed to come upon the memorial sculptures first. The photos don’t do them justice, as they are larger than life! We asked ourselves many times as we wandered the grounds, about the process of making these immense sculptures and what that might look like. 

There is something magical about this place. As you walk among these enormous, whimsical sculptures, it’s easy to feel like you are in a magical forest, where strange creatures may reveal themselves at any moment. I was filled with a sense of wonder as we walked through the woods and fields, discovering hidden sculptures as we got closer to them. The eerie sound of the peacocks also added to the experience. Their cries always seemed to surround us, and just when we thought we were close enough to see one, we would hear their scream from another direction. 

I can understand why someone would want their final resting place to be in such a magical place. The idea of becoming art, becoming part of something larger than yourself, to instill a sense of awe in others; that guarantees you will always be remembered.

Do you want to plan your own trip to visit The Screaming Heads? They are located in Midlothian, Ontario, close to the small town of Burk’s Falls. The grounds are open year-round, from dawn till dusk, and admission is by donation. Make sure to bring your camera, your water bottle, and LOTS of bug spray. Have you already visited? I would love to hear about your experience in the comments.

Thanks for reading! 


References:

  1. The Screaming Heads North of Muskoka | The Great Canadian Wilderness
  2. Peter Camani | Wikipedia
  3. How to Be Posthumously Transformed Into an 18-Foot Screaming Head | Slate

Additional Links:

A Personal Cemetery Mystery

I have been thinking a lot lately about my connection to cemeteries. I recently read Death’s Garden Revisited, edited by Loren Rhoads. It’s a collection of 40 personal essays by people from all walks of life, regarding their own connections with cemeteries. I saw a lot of myself in those essays, and it has encouraged me to look back on past events in my own life that have attributed to my love of cemeteries. 

One of those moments that stand out, is a family story that has been passed down by my mother. I was too young at the time, so I have no memory of it, but my mother has told me the story many times.

When I was a child, I saw an angel in a cemetery.

Now you may be thinking, well yes, there are lots of angels in cemeteries! And yes, this is very true. Angel statues are a very common sight in Catholic cemeteries. Children are also known to have overactive imaginations, and I was no exception. I did have an imaginary friend growing up. But I am curious and wanted to learn more about the circumstances of this cemetery visit.

One of my earliest memories is of attending my uncle’s funeral in Elliot Lake. I was very young, maybe 5 or so, but I vividly remember the funeral parlor. I remember the smell of the parlor, as well as seeing many somber family members, sitting in dark leather armchairs. I don’t remember the cemetery though. Was this the same moment? Were we visiting the cemetery after the funeral service? 

In 2021, my mother and I took a drive to Elliott Lake to do some hiking and cemetery wandering. We visited my uncle in the cemetery. I had no recollection of being there, but my mother had vivid memories of the place. She said it looked a lot different; there had not been as many graves in the section where my uncle was laid to rest. Over the years it had become a very popular section. It was so full that the cemetery opened another section at the back, which was now about half full. The cemetery has no standing gravestones, only flat grave markers. No angel statues here. My Mom confirmed this was not the cemetery where I saw an angel.

It turns out there is MUCH more to this story. 

In the summer of 1987, My mother, father and I were visiting my uncle in Quebec for a family reunion. I would have been about 3 years old. It was planned to be a big reunion of my father’s side of the family. Unfortunately, only we showed up. My uncle was a bit dismayed but decided to not let that ruin our visit, so there was a change of plans. Since we were close to Quebec City we would visit some old stomping grounds and visit some cemeteries to visit family. There was one family member in particular that my dad and uncle wanted to find—their uncle Joseph Larochelle.

The story goes that my great-uncle, Joseph Larochelle who was blind, went out into a snowstorm with his dog. His Family members told him not to go out, because of the blustery winter weather—but he went anyway. He said he would be fine since he had his dog with him. Unfortunately, he lost his way in the storm and went missing. Tragically, both he and his dog perished in the storm. He had gotten stuck on a fence and was not able to break free. He was not found until the late spring. 

My dad and uncle did manage to find the grave of Joseph. They took a picture with the gravestone that has some details of what happened to him. The gravestone states he was blind, died February 18, and was found June 4. I don’t know the year, as the photo is a little hard to read. It was while visiting this cemetery that I saw an angel. 

The gravestone reads: “Joseph Larochelle / Blind / Died February 18 / And Found / June 4, 19_1 / Aged __ Yrs. / R.I.P”

I have reached out to my aunts and uncles to see if they have more information, or know which cemetery he is buried in. I have not been able to find anything much so far. My searches on Find a Grave and Ancestry have not turned up anything yet. I have an idea where to look—Quebec City, but I don’t have much more than that at the moment. I would love to learn more about my great-uncle, as well as the cemetery where he is laid to rest. Is it filled with stone angels? 

When I started looking into this story, I didn’t expect to uncover a cemetery mystery. I love a good cemetery mystery, and it’s even more intriguing to have a family connection to one. I will keep researching and maybe will have an update on this story in the future. In the meantime, I will continue to go down cemetery rabbit holes looking for answers. Maybe I’ll also get closer to answering my question about my cemetery angel. 

Thanks for reading!

Stone Stories: Coniston Train Crash Memorial

Last February, I learned about a local tragedy that has left a hole in the community of Coniston. A heart-felt roadside memorial was erected, to ensure that the men who were lost that day are never forgotten. This monument sits at the train crossing where the tragic events took place. Last spring, my mother and I visited the memorial to pay our respects. 

This past Thursday, February 9th, marked the 72nd anniversary of the train crash in Coniston.

The monument reads: “This monument has been / erected to remember the / nine men who lost their / lives, and the many who were / injured at the train / crossing in the tragic / bus and train accident / on February 9, 1951. / Primo Creama / Herbert Conlon / Alex Beauparlant / David Martin / Eugene Leclair / Joseph Tremblay / Paul Sharko / Ernie Cooper / Never to be forgotten”

The early morning, of February 9th, had been incredibly cold. According to the Coniston Historical Group, the temperature had dropped to 48 degrees below zero that morning, which caused low visibility. The passenger train was also running late that morning.1 Between 8 and 8:15 a.m. tragedy struck—a CPR passenger train collided with a local bus at the railway crossing in Coniston. 31 people were injured, and 9 were dead.2 The bus had been carrying residents as well as smelter workers on their way home from a graveyard shift. The 9 men who lost their lives that day were from the same shift at the INCO smelter.1 

The monument sits beside the railway tracks on the corner of Government Road and Edward Avenue, at the site where the horrific accident took place. I haven’t been able to determine exactly when the monument was erected, but from what I have read it was possibly erected by the Lions Club, in the early 2000s, and is now maintained by the Coniston Historical Group.

On the anniversary of the accident, a candlelight vigil is erected in the early morning at the monument. A custom-made INCO triangle candle holder, holds nine lit candles, one for each of the men who sadly lost their lives that day. 

Alex Beauparlant 

Herbert Conlon 

Ernie Cooper 

Primo Crema 

Lucien Landriault 

Eugene Leclair 

David Martin 

Paul Sharko 

Joseph Tremblay 

At the peak of the triangle is a 10th candle, that is lit in memory of the 31 who survived the crash, and for those in the community who were left behind, to mourn their friends’ families, and colleagues. It’s a beautiful memorial, that brings the community together, to share memories of their loved ones and make sure that they will never be forgotten. 

My mother and I visited the memorial in late May of 2022. It was a very sunny and beautiful day. As we drove to Coniston, only a short drive away from our home, I remember wondering why I had never heard of this tragic event before. I had only learned about it after having seen a Facebook post from the Coniston Historical Group, earlier that year. 

The monument sits very close to the railway tracks, if you didn’t know it was there—you might miss it. There is a small parking area right next to the monument, with a little walkway that leads up to the memorial. The site is very well taken care of, and you can feel the love the community has for this memorial and what it symbolizes. I think what makes this memorial a bit surreal, is the fact that it sits right next to the train tracks where the accident happened so many years ago. I know it must have looked a lot different then, but it’s a very somber feeling to look at the railway tracks just behind the monument and know that that is where it happened.

This monument is a cenotaph, a marker where the deceased have been laid to rest elsewhere. As I read and researched I became curious as to where these 9 men now rest. I have been able to locate the resting place of three of them; Alex Beauparlant, David Martin, and Paul Sharko. I hope to find the other 6 and visit them this summer to pay my respects.

I always find roadside memorials incredibly moving. This was a tragic accident that changed the fabric of the small town of Coniston forever, but it will never be forgotten. I’d like to thank the Coniston Historical Group for all the good work they do to maintain this memorial, and for their educational posts on Facebook, as they continue to share the history and story of Coniston. So much history could be lost if it wasn’t for groups like theirs.

Thanks for reading.


References:

  1. Canadian Disaster Database | Government of Canada
  2. Facebook post | Coniston Historical Group
  3. Toronto Star
  4. Madera Tribune

Stone Stories: The Dyer Memorial

Winter is slowly starting to tighten its grip on us here in Northern Ontario. My road trips are done for the year, now that it’s getting colder and the snow is getting deeper. I like to take this time to sort through my photos, update my photography portfolios and upload images to Find a Grave. I also like to reminisce on all the cemeteries I have visited during the year. Today, I wanted to share my experience visiting the Dyer Memorial Nature Reserve.

Every October I take some time off to enjoy the crispy weather and changing colors in Ontario. Hiking and visiting cemeteries in the fall are my absolute favorite. This past October, my mother, and hiking buddy visited Huntsville to do some leaf peeping and hiking with some cemetery visits along the way. One of the must-do’s on this trip was visiting the Dyer Memorial. I had read online that this memorial site and nature reserve was a monument of love, in memory of a loving Wife. When we arrived at the site, I was surprised to find out that the Dyer Memorial is also the final resting place of Betsy and Clifton Dyer.

This beautiful monument was erected in 1956 by Clifton G. Dyer, a Detroit lawyer, for his wife Betsy Browne Dyer.1 It sits about 10 minutes outside of Huntsville, in the small hamlet of Williamsport. They were frequent visitors to the area, having first honeymooned in the Muskokas in 1916. They loved the outdoors and would often tent or stay in a cabin above the Big East River, close to the spot where the memorial now sits. In the 1940s they had a permanent cottage built and visited every summer.2 Betsy passed away in 1956, and Clifton, in his mourning, had the memorial built so Betsy could be laid to rest in the place she loved so much.1 Her ashes were placed in a copper urn at the top of the memorial.2 Clifton passed away 3 years later, and his ashes were also placed within the monument.1  

The road to the monument site is not paved and snakes its way up to a small car park area. There is some signage but it might be missed if you’re not paying close attention. The trail from the car park to the monument doesn’t seem like much, but once you turn the corner on the flagstone path and see the monument come into view, it’s quite impressive.

The obelisk stretches high into the sky, with a plaque near the top that reads “Dyer”. The monument is surrounded by footpaths leading every which way around the monument. Some small wooden bridges extend over a small pond with trails that curve around small clumps of trees. The lone monument stands like a sentinel in the center of it all. 

At the base of the monument there is a plaque that reads:  

“ERECTED IN FOND MEMORY OF / BETSY BROWNE DYER / 1884-1956 / BY HER HUSBAND / CLIFTON G. DYER / 1885-1959 / AS A PERMANENT TRIBUTE TO HER FOR THE NEVER-FAILING / AID, ENCOURAGEMENT AND INSPIRATION WHICH SHE / CONTRIBUTED TO THEIR MARRIED CAREER AND AS A / FINAL RESTING PLACE FOR THEIR ASHES. / An Affectionate, Loyal and Understanding Wife is Life’s Greatest Gift”

We were the only ones on the grounds when we visited, so we took our time to explore the area. There was no trail map to show how far the trails went, so we kept our bearings and didn’t stray too far from the monument. We crossed a small bridge and wandered around the small pond, reflecting the bright fall colors. We also explored a small clump of trees on the other side of the monument, again deciding to stay close to the stone obelisk and not walk too far down the trails. 

I circled the obelisk a few times, in awe of its stature and what it represents. It was first built as a loving tribute but now stands as a memorial to both Husband and Wife.

It’s lovely to see this site so well taken care of, not just the memorial, but also the surrounding trails. I love the idea that this nature reserve preserves the area so others can experience the beauty of it, just as the Dyers did in their lifetimes. 

Thanks for reading!

References: 

  1. Muskoka’s Hidden Gems – Dyer Memorial, Huntsville | CLRM
  2. Dyer Memorial | Huntsville Adventures